Jump to content
RealModScene

andoryuu3

Members
  • Content Count

    69
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    6

Everything posted by andoryuu3

  1. Swizzy, I'm curious-- what's your reason for this? I use IC Diamond 7C (3 degree improvement over Arctic Silver 5) and Shin Etsu MicroSi (4-5 degree improvement over AS5). My results are from PC applications. Admittedly I haven't done any paste comparisons on my Xbox consoles, I just trust my pastes to do their job better than the OEM unknown. (EDIT: I'm in the US, but my temps are always in C. Overclocker forums trained me to measure that way, lol) Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  2. I don't believe so. But if you have Aurora running on your Xbox 360, then you must have Dashlaunch.If I were you, I would rely on Dashlaunch to change your fan speed. FSD lets you change fan speed as well... But honestly, because of Dashlaunch, it's a redundant and unnecessary feature If you have any trouble changing the fan speed in Dashlaunch, let me know and I can try to assist you. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  3. That's true-- I didn't consider that aspect. I just never have been able to get the video reset combo to work. I've tried both with a controller and just the power button itself (this was on my tri-NAND slim trinity; using stock NAND). On at least slim consoles, if you hold the power button for 10 seconds (if I recall correctly) it does the same thing as the controller combo. Try giving that a shot and see if you have better luck than I did. If you do it right, you should see the Ring of Light do a "countdown" like pattern, then I believe the console also emits a beep noise. Otherwise, if that doesn't work I would be curious to know if disabling Dashlaunch/FakeAnim works for you. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  4. I wish I could tell you of such a website, but truthfully I don't know any. Best solution is either a dual NAND mod or a second Xbox 360 safe for Xbox Live. If you end up getting a dual NAND mod, I can help you make it safe for Xbox Live. I used to have a tri-NAND system for a bit over two years. They're very convenient if you know how to maintain them. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  5. This problem specifically started happening after enabling FakeAnim? Personally I don't use FakeAnim, and I have to do the same thing every time-- set to 720p before moving my console. I think this might be a problem with NXE rather than FakeAnim. Have you tried disabling FakeAnim and trying again? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  6. I'm going to make this super easy for you. Thank Tapatalk and its ability to easily upload photos for that. If you still can't get it working after this, I don't know what to tell you. From the main screen, enter settings: I have my emulators in the USB0:\Aurora\Emulators folder. Then press B from the main menu and go to quick view. This is what you should have: If you still can't get it to work, delete all your filters and try again. This is my personal setup. I wanted OpenJazz and Quake under the Emulators filter, so I put them in my Homebrew folder (Applications are in the Apps folder) and did this: Good luck. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  7. For the record, your English is better than some native speakers I know. Besides, I think this is the first post I've seen from someone who claims not to be a native English speaker who hasn't demanded a release! I commend you for that. If others would read around, or at least have basic human respect, maybe they would be a more supportive and positive voice in this thread too.Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  8. Any chance of seeing a LIVE installer in Aurora's future? I keep thinking it would be a great and fairly painless way to migrate FSD users over to Aurora. Particularly in cases where a user doesn't have access to (or knowledge of) Dashlaunch/launch.ini I've considered modifying the latest release of the FSD LIVE installer to install either Aurora or the latest version of FSD, but all I am able to do is swap out files. (And I am very aware that this alone may not work) Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  9. Do you have access to either Dashlaunch or your launch.ini? It shouldn't affect connectivity to xboxunity.net, but I would at least make sure livestrong is disabled. Maybe try enabling xhttp. Sorry, I'm just at a loss of what to recommend. It seems more likely that you have a firewall blocking your Xbox from xboxunity.net... Well, that is unless being banned from live cripples your net connectivity. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  10. First, I have to ask: do you prefer to stick with FSD? Because I and others would strongly recommend you use Aurora instead. First step you can do to fix it is to download the FSD "LIVE" installer (from Xbins). I am going to assume that you don't already have a USB drive formatted for Xbox 360 (please correct me if I am wrong). Before we can use the Live installer, you'll need to format your USB drive. Start your Xbox, and immediately press the guide button and open System Settings on the far right tab. One of two things will happen-- you will be greeted with Dashlaunch (unlikely), or you will open the Xbox 360 dashboard. If you get the dashboard, then open settings -> storage, then format your USB drive here. Let me know when you've done this and I'll assist you with copying the FSD live installer to the USB drive. You will either need Party Buffalo file manager or Horizon (horizonmb.com). Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  11. Ouch-- looks like he gave you a project with the system. I'm 99% sure that updating the console to the latest dashboard (17489) will solve your problems. (this one solution fixes most problems people experience playing their games) Is there any possibility he could help you with this? I assume since he gave you the console, he is probably the expert of the two of you. Please feel free to correct me if I'm wrong. We can certainly help you too. In order to do so, I have a few questions for you: 1) Do you have a NAND reader/writer for your Xbox 360? (Examples include: NAND-X, JR-Programmer v1/v2, Matrix SPI Programmer) 2) Do you have a NAND dump and CPU key? 3) Do you have access to Dashlaunch? 4) If necessary, are you willing and comfortable with soldering? Let me know and I can figure out some sort of course of action for you. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  12. Sure-- Xbox Neighborhood is fine. FTP is merely a suggestion in this case. In regards to your question about DLC, you shouldn't need it for campaign modes. Only need title updates to fix in game bugs. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  13. Gotcha. And you're probably right about disc 1 being compatibility content. I have CoD:AW, just haven't played it yet. There's a way to launch 2 disc games using just FSD (and another via Dashlaunch; FSD is probably easier for most people) if I remember correctly. I would try to get that to work first if possible. I don't remember how to set it up off hand, so I'll try to find a guide for you. My last idea involves your external HDD-- do you still have the files for Advanced Warfare on your computer? It's possible there was an error while you were copying disc 2 to your external. If you still have the files, I would try to copy it over again and see if it works. Does it always freeze in the same place? Anyway, I'll try to find that guide for you. EDIT: Here's a guide written by JPizzle on how to set up multi disc If you have any issues with this guide, I can try to help you out. Note that you probably don't have swap.xex in the root of your hard drive-- if you did, multi disc was probably already set up through dashlaunch. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  14. Yes, it definitely is possible. This is the unfortunate downside of RGH/JTAG consoles. As for how to avoid playing with them, I don't know if I have an answer for that. LiNK is probably the one feature of Aurora/FSD I have not used yet. If I had to guess, I would say you probably can't block the cheaters. I think someone else could provide you with a better answer. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  15. Keep in mind that the latest Title Update on FSD may not be the latest one released. The only way to be sure you have the absolute latest is to get it from a console safe for Xbox Live. Though, on popular games such as Advanced Warfare, you have a significantly higher chance that FSD/Aurora will have the latest Title Update as well. As far as your method of launching the game (or "getting it to work") goes, let's try to take this piece by piece. Disc 1 is installed to Xbox HDD. However it's unclear how you are launching disc 2. Are you saying you used DVD Extract to copy disc 2 to FSD? Or do you use the actual DVD and load it that way? My best recommendation is to launch both discs the same way. If you installed disc 1, is it possible to install disc 2 as well? If you can't install disc 2, I would try using the DVD to load it instead. Whatever the case, what disc is mission 4 on anyway? This may help isolate the problem the fastest. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  16. Considering Advanced Warfare is a newer game, I think it's reasonable to assume you should have the latest dashboard installed (which I believe is 17489). Installing the avatar data is a good idea too.Think about it this way: If you were playing on Xbox Live, would you... ...be on the latest dashboard? Yes. (1st priority) ...have the latest Title Update? Yes. (2nd priority) ...have the avatar data installed? Yes. (3rd priority) The avatar data may not be required, but my point is simple. By meeting conditions such as these, you can effectively increase your chances of compatibility with other users. Another point I'd like to mention is, sometimes a title update's usability depends on having a certain dashboard installed. If the title update was probably released on the latest dashboard, you should definitely be on the latest dashboard. Good luck, and hope this helps. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  17. Once I get to my PC, I can write up a small guide to help you make Aurora your default dashboard. In the meantime, grab a USB flash drive and download the latest Dashlaunch installer. Also, copy Aurora to the root of your flash drive so it looks like this: E:\Aurora\aurora.xex (Replace "E" with whatever drive letter your flash drive appears as in Windows) Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  18. Yep, I've read this will be possible as well. You can also do this through the current version of Aurora without scripts by copying all files from a game disc to a folder of your choice via file manager.I'm also going to chime in my support of booting Aurora directly via dashlaunch-- there's no reason to not do so at this point, as Aurora is far more stable than FSD. Just use FSD as an app if you really need it. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  19. Care to explain what you mean by "data port"? That's really vague and won't help us understand very well... Also, what do you mean by "everything passed"? Are you saying you ran a network test via Xbox 360 Dashboard's settings? You've got to give specific details, otherwise I don't have a clue what your issue is. Please also explain what you mean by "other port". Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  20. Typically I would recommend the latest version too, but build 425 and build 421 seem to break compatibility with phat 0800 drives . I bashed my head around trying to figure out why the Start button was greyed out, as from the readme, it claims that they're supported. However from build 421 on, Redline99 introduced a feature that allows ripping from any OEM drive (OFW or CFW) given that you have an X360USB Pro v2 and the DVD key (in other words, if these conditions are met, no need to flash 0800 to rip XGD3 or others). I couldn't find a clean cut solution.It seems that this new feature broke compatibility with phat 0800 drives, as when I use build 350 (latest non-4XX build) I can rip using my Liteon DG-16D2S without any problems. So personally, I recommend build 350 for 0800 drives. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  21. What a fun thread. Wish I would have looked into it sooner-- congrats on your find! First tip I have for you is, if you don't have a DVD drive in it yet, try your best to get a Samsung rev B (or version B; can't remember). This was the clear winner in the OG Xbox days, as unlike the common (and crappy) Thompson drives, it was able to read CD-Rs without an issue. Officially, Microsoft would not admit to a difference in media compatibility between drives, but it was there. Sounds crazy that a device from that time was incompatible with CD-Rs, but Thompson owners were usually well aware of this. (I discovered the issue after seeing my friend copy a burnt music CD to his Xbox; I couldn't figure out why he was able to). Phillips drives are a little rare, and while not the best in compatibility, is still better than a Thompson. As for your AV cable issue, the best I can recommend is HD component cables, as VGA was strictly not supported. You could modify your Xbox to output VGA, but I remember it requiring either custom cables or bioses. If both component and standard AV cables don't work, then sadly you are most likely S.O.L. Now for the eeprom... You can try it, and it might work, but I strongly recommend keeping the original eeprom and locking a new HDD to it. I used to be a huge original Xbox need, and at one point moderated/administrated at Llamma.com (RIP). Based on what I used to know, I seem to remember the eeprom was more than just for locking drives to the console. It may have even stored region information in it. I wish I could remember clearly, but this is why I'm leaning toward keeping your original dev kit eeprom (you may get a FRAG). Another significant eeprom info is, the eeprom was what M$ used to ban consoles from Live. So to unban a console, you needed a clean eeprom (and either a way to lock a new drive to it, or the original HDD). This doesn't apply to dev kits, but once a HDD and eeprom pair connected to XBL, they were considered "married" (though only enforced online) The only other thing I know about the eeprom that is significant is, when you lock a HDD to it, it uses the serial number of the HDD to do so. You can lock multiple HDDs to one eeprom with no problem, so it seems that something is saved to the HDD to confirm the lock. This is good to know if you start with a stock HDD (8GB IDE) and wish to upgrade later. If you use an X3CE, you can lock/unlock straight from the bios. Otherwise be prepared to use either Super Disc or SlaYers to do the job for you. If I were you, I'd skip the 8GB drive and go for a bigger one. IDE drives above 8GB are fairly cheap these days. My main point on the eeprom talk is this: it was a very central part of the console, much like Keyvaults on the 360. I don't believe there was much (if any) unique information stored on the TSOP (NAND?) itself. Hacked bioses just overrode the onboard one, and there was no special preparation to flash one (CPU key? OG Xbox says "lol wuts that"). You could simply download a hacked bios and flash as is to your modchip so long as it was compatible (for example, a 512kb X2 bios would not fit on a 256kb chip... For obvious reasons. Also, X3 bios is only compatible with X3/X3CE) Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  22. I agree with you to a point. I agree in the sense that I don't want it to be Duke Nukem Forever: Came out 10-12 years later and up until it's anticlimactic release was rumored to be vaporware. I prefer a release sometime in 2016.On the flipside, I thoroughly enjoy stable releases. Aurora is presentation worthy. It doesn't break when you try to do X Y and Z, and it doesn't embarrass you in front of your friends. That's the standard in stability and quality that I've come to expect from Aurora. If next release isn't up to par yet, I can wait. More stability means less complaints, bugs and bug reports (including multiple bug reports for bugs already stated as known-- there's always that one guy who does it). I'm not here to kiss anyone's rear end, but if I were in the devs shoes, I'd wait for a quality release too. Even if it is stale now (I disagree), a sub-par release isn't going to help anything or anyone. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  23. Just tossing in my two cents. You can try my "trick" and see if it works, but a reflash is probably your best bet. The only time I experienced this was intermittently when using LTU2 firmware. Often, if I powered up the console and immediately inserted my burnt backup, I would get the "Play DVD" error. My best results were from powering on the console with an empty disc tray, waiting for the system to load the dashboard, then inserting my disc. Usually, but not always, I could also power on the console with a disc in tray and it would work fine. But since you have no idea what firmware you have, you probably don't have a LTU2 drive. As DarkXorCist recommends, reflash your drive with LT3.0. It will likely fix the issue, and may even be an upgrade to what you currently have. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  24. Read through the thread and you'll discover you just asked the question most frequently asked... And most frowned upon.We all would like to see a release of Aurora 0.6, so let's pretend you didn't just ask that. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  25. Why are you relying on Xecuter Fusion to remap your bad blocks? Uncheck noremap in JRunner and let JRunner do the work of writing and remapping. If you're getting E79, it usually means you have bad blocks that need to be remapped. In other words, you should always be remapping your bad blocks. Failure to do so (or to let JRunner do this automatically) could mean seeing E79 more often. (By the way: Xecuter Fusion is an outdated and abandoned project. I recommend ditching it completely) Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
×
×
  • Create New...