johnnyblackout

You can always unlock them with yaris-swap, you need to do it on a pc though... http://digiex.net/downloads/download-center-2-0/xbox-360-content/apps-pc/3122-yarisswap-download-patch-content-work-jtag-rgh-xbox-360-a.html

Kind of reminds me of this scene from tommy boy: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=a5dpBpaFiMo

Even with a faulty external HDD your console should boot fine. It might hang up on the xbox splash screen for a bit, but it should still boot. Either way if it's working to your satisfaction, then that's all that matters.

I found an ISO mod. Meaning you'll have to extract the iso with something like xbox image browser, then replace some of the files with these modified ones. http://www.xbox360iso.com/xcom-enemy-unknown-t635629.html

When I would do this, I used a program called Horizon. I'm pretty sure the program is still being used, not a 100% though. You basically need to re-hash/re-sign the savegame to your profile ID. Here's a link/tutorial for that: http://www.se7ensins.com/forums/threads/how-to-extract-and-replace-a-game-save-with-horizon.936243/

This is really confusing to me. I've seen instances where a console will boot for a while with a fake coolrunner, but die after a few months. OP keeps stating he/she "still has a warranty". If the console is modded in ANY way, then the official Miscrosoft warranty is VOID. If you have a different warranty, say from the person who modded it for you, then I would return it to them and have them fix it. Either way, good luck with that.

Do you have backups of your original nand? if you do load them up in J-runner, along with your CPU key and build the image in that. Your issue sounds more severe then just a bad NAND. I think it might be either faulty soldering or possible a fake glitch chip. Since you won't post pictures of the soldering or the mod-chip, nobody can tell for sure.

If it's modded the warranty is void... Is this thing modded or not?

You really need to take the case off and post pictures of the motherboard. We need to see your soldering and the mod-chip installed in the console. If it's a genuine Team Xecuter product, then you will be able to get support via their forums. Here's a link explaining you to remove the case: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GoUaTdfaYhg

We need more info brochacho. Is the console glitched? If so how was it glitched (RGH, R-JTAG, etc...). What mod-chip is in it? What model xbox is it (Slim or Phat).

The easiest way I can think of, is if you put either xexmenu or FSD on a thumb drive. Plug the retail hard-drive into the RGH console, then load up either Xexmenu/FSD off the thumb-drive. You should then be able to ftp everything to your PC, then unlock using yaris-swap.

Have you tried downloading the TU from http://www.xbuc.net/ and ftp it to the content/000000000000000/game-id/000B0000 folder?

Try checking this thread out: http://www.realmodscene.com/index.php?/topic/2330-gta-v-live-profile-required/

Do what datastream said. If it's crashing when you go to install it, I noticed if you unplug the ethernet cable it sometimes helps.

Have you tried contacting ther person who modded it for you and ask for the original NAND?

If I remember correctly, your console is a trinity so I doubt it needs a reflow. can you PM me a link to the original two copies of your nand?

If it's a genuine TX cr3lite, I would recommend going over to their forum and asking there for help. There's a strict template you need to follow, also you have to provide clear pictures of your install and the CR3lite. http://team-xecuter.com/forums/showthread.php?t=96474

Well if Martin gave you a NAND with the 16537 dash already on it, why don't you just write that to the console through xell?

So I take it Martin C helped ya fix your bad block issue. Do your controllers still shut off every five minutes?

I see you got Martin C over at the TX forums helping ya out. I didn't know you had a donor nand to begin with. You should be in good hands over there.

ok so now in in Jrunner, click on "show working folder" and a window should pop up with a file in it called "updflash.bin". Copy that file to the root of a thumb drive (formatted in fat32). Once you have that plug the thumb-drive into the xbox and power the console on with the eject button. You should see a blue screen (this is xell). Once in xell you should see a prompt, telling you it's flashing the nand on your console. When it's done, you power cycle the console and you should be good to go.

What JPizzle meant was to take your two original NAND's and compare them, to check for bad blocks. The way that I do this is by using a program called Jrunner, which you can find here: http://bit.ly/K8z3OP After you run Jrunner, click on "load source" and browse to the first copy of your nand. After that click on "Load Extra" and browse to the second copy of your nand. Now you would click on "Nand Compare". This should remap any bad blocks you would of had on your original image. Then you just put in the CPU key (into Jrunner), select a dash version (16537, you might have to add it in Jrunner) and click "create xebuild image". After all that double click on the log screen, save as a text file and post the results here, so we can see them.

Did the person you bought it from give you multiple copies of the original NAND and the CPU key with the console? If not, I would definitely contact them and request it.

Is the computer in the same room as the xbox? Did you buy a third party receiver for your pc to use this wireless controller with? Also is there a wireless router anywhere near your xbox? I got this directly from the M$ website: "Solution 3: Remove objects between the controller and the console The controller works within 33 feet (10 meters) of your console. However, objects placed between the controller and the console might reduce this range. In addition, objects that use wireless technology (for example, a cordless phone) can interfere with your wireless controller. Remove or relocate objects or wireless devices that might interfere with the wireless controller or console. Here are some things that can cause problems: Microwave ovens Cordless phones Wireless routers Chrome faceplates Metal dividers Shelves Doors on an entertainment center cabinet" It could be some interference of some sort, which is causing the controller to cut out.

This may sound pretty obvious, but have you tried putting in new batteries? If it still persists after new batteries, I would try this tutorial: http://www.wikihow.com/Fix-an-Xbox-360-Wireless-Controller-That-Keeps-Shutting-Off Could be the batteries aren't making proper contact with the metal pieces inside the battery pack.