CR4 XL not working, RGH2+ install

[MrKronic 7]

Hello again. So I've installed a CR4 XL into a Corona v1 board set to RGH2+. However after the install, the CR4 board does not seem to glitch at all and only shows that it is getting power. The console on the other hand, powers up so I presume there is nothing wrong with the motherboard. I've used one of the alt cpu_rst points instead of the recommended one since i don''t have access to good quality thermal paste. What could be causing this? Thank you

[Swizzy 2084]

Did you write the CR4 ECC for Corona to the motherboard?

[MrKronic 7]

Yes I did. Here's the log:

If it matters, I did the NAND read and ECC write before installing the CR4. Could that be the issue?

===================================================

Friday, November 13, 2015 12:58:41 AM

J-Runner v0.3 Beta (8) Started

WARNING! - Your selected working directory already contains files!

You can view these files by using 'Show Working Folder' Button

Checking Files

Finished Checking Files

Initializing nanddump1.bin..

Corona

Glitch2 Selected

Nand Initialization Finished

Comparing...

Nands are the same

Checking Console..

Version: 10

Flash Config: 0x00043000

00043000

Corona

CB Version: 13181

Corona

Comparing...

Nands are the same

ECC created

CR4 Selected

R-Jtag Selected

R-Jtag de-Selected

CR4 de-Selected

CR4 Selected

===================================================

Friday, November 13, 2015 2:26:56 AM

J-Runner v0.3 Beta (8) Started

WARNING! - Your selected working directory already contains files!

You can view these files by using 'Show Working Folder' Button

Checking Files

Finished Checking Files

Checking Console..

Version: 10

Flash Config: 0x00043000

00043000

Corona

CB Version: 13181

Corona

Glitch2 Selected

Glitch2m Selected

Glitch2 Selected

CR4 Selected

===================================================

Friday, November 13, 2015 2:29:25 AM

J-Runner v0.3 Beta (8) Started

WARNING! - Your selected working directory already contains files!

You can view these files by using 'Show Working Folder' Button

Checking Files

Finished Checking Files

Checking Console..

Version: 10

Flash Config: 0x00043000

00043000

Corona

CB Version: 13181

Corona

Checking Console..

Version: 10

Flash Config: 0x00043000

00043000

Corona

CB Version: 13181

Corona

Version: 10

Flash Config: 0x00043000

Writing Nand

CORONA_16MB_CR4.ecc

Done!

in 0:18 min:sec

===================================================

[felida 1653]

 

Yes I did. Here's the log:

If it matters, I did the NAND read and ECC write before installing the CR4. Could that be the issue?

ok mate.. does the cr4 pulse green?? did you mess with the jumper?

[Swizzy 2084]

ok mate.. does the cr4 pulse green??

If you read the first post, he states it didn't do the glitching, only showing it has power...

[MrKronic 7]

For the record, this is the only point I can use at the moment. The other cpu_rst point FT3T10 was lifted off because of that IPEX cable.

Edit: It seems that the ECC file that I flashed has a CB version of 9188 and is showing up as Trinity? :/ Is that causing the issue? I have no *!&%ing clue how it is happening because I am selecting the J Runner provide ECC named "CORONA 16MB CR4"

[Swizzy 2084]

The issue is that you didn't mention the damage you had caused...

If you listen to the fan you'll notice it's speeding up and down very rapidly... this is caused by CPU_RST not being connected all the way from the pad under the X-Clamp and the other end

9188 in that image is the MFG version, so it is probably the correct one

[MrKronic 7]

But I didn't use the CPU_RST point under the X-Clamp. Like I mentioned in the OP, I have no access to the X-clamp underside, as I can't get my hands on thermal paste.

The only point that has been damaged was the FT3T10 point. I am using R4P5 now instead. 

 

[Swizzy 2084]

But I didn't use the CPU_RST point under the X-Clamp. Like I mentioned in the OP, I have no access to the X-clamp underside, as I can't get my hands on thermal paste.

The only point that has been damaged was the FT3T10 point. I am using R4P5 now instead.

Yes, but you are not reading what i'm telling you, FT3T10 is on the trace that runs from the CPU to the southbridge (if memory serves me right) now, what you did with messing up FT3T10 is break that connection, because of it, the CPU will constantly be resetting itself as it doesn't have the proper value it expects... this causes the console to not be able to go past 1BL which in turn makes it impossible to glitch it...

What you need to do is find an alternative point on the top side of the board and do repairs by connecting that point with either the trace that runs from FT3T10, R4P5 or the pad underneath the X-Clamp the choice is yours, i did a similar repair on a Trinity not too long ago, just a few weeks ago actually

I would recommend that you find a professional to fix it rather then trying it yourself

[MrKronic 7]

Ah, sorry for the confusion. So basically the console is destined to be stuck in an RROD loop in stock dash unless the FT3T10 point is reconnected topside. Any suitable links you can provide for repair points for all CPU_RST points. Would need to explain it to the repair guy before I get anything done. Also, can you suggest a safe way to secure the wire connecting the points permanently?

[felida 1653]

If you read the first post, he states it didn't do the glitching, only showing it has power...

yeah i got that.. but some people mean it as the console doesnt boot.. i'll take a break from helping peeps.. haha.. i am starting to assume a lil bit haha.. 

[StaticPulse 262]

Hello again. So I've installed a CR4 XL into a Corona v1 board set to RGH2+. However after the install, the CR4 board does not seem to glitch at all and only shows that it is getting power. The console on the other hand, powers up so I presume there is nothing wrong with the motherboard. I've used one of the alt cpu_rst points instead of the recommended one since i don''t have access to good quality thermal paste. What could be causing this? Thank you

IMG_20151114_002226.jpg

IMG_20151114_002311.jpg

IMG_20151114_002333.jpg

First off, here: http://www.se7ensins.com/forums/threads/sin-hds-ultimate-jtag-rgh-install-guide-w-the-cr4-xl.1235020/

Secondly, from what I saw, I'd tin your wire leads and cut them a bit shorter, then I'd keep the wires for the install as short as possible.

I learned a long long time ago that using a jewelers fiberglass pen to scour you contact points (gently) and being liberal with the flux helps a LOT. Afterwards, clean up your flux with some 91% or better isopropyl alcohol as flux tends to corrode contact points.

The reason I reccomend shortening your wires is that it will provide less resistance on the lead in question.

After than go over the default DIP setting, if that doesnt work then you get the fun of trying all the different tested and successful DIP settings until you hit paydirt. The postbit jumper setting sometimes helps too. I see you have yours set at default, try out the 10ohm setting as I've had the most success with that and a 30uf disc capacitor.

EDIT

Concerning the lifted solder point, see if you have any kind of a copper trace left next to it that you might possibly be able to LIGHTLY scratch with a x-acto knife to expose the copper, dab it with some flux, tin it, and if you have decent soldering skills, line the wire up on top of the exposed trace, solder it in, then if successful, put a dab of really good glue E6000 works great for that kind of repair. Don't do it at the end of the trace because that will eventuall peel off. Do it with at least a 1/8 inch from the end where you're going to solder.

[MrKronic 7]

Yes, but you are not reading what i'm telling you, FT3T10 is on the trace that runs from the CPU to the southbridge (if memory serves me right) now, what you did with messing up FT3T10 is break that connection, because of it, the CPU will constantly be resetting itself as it doesn't have the proper value it expects... this causes the console to not be able to go past 1BL which in turn makes it impossible to glitch it...

What you need to do is find an alternative point on the top side of the board and do repairs by connecting that point with either the trace that runs from FT3T10, R4P5 or the pad underneath the X-Clamp the choice is yours, i did a similar repair on a Trinity not too long ago, just a few weeks ago actually

I would recommend that you find a professional to fix it rather then trying it yourself

Couldn't get hold of a repair guy, so I went ahead and did it myself. Anyways, I managed to get the console booting again

 

First off, here: http://www.se7ensins.com/forums/threads/sin-hds-ultimate-jtag-rgh-install-guide-w-the-cr4-xl.1235020/

Secondly, from what I saw, I'd tin your wire leads and cut them a bit shorter, then I'd keep the wires for the install as short as possible.

I learned a long long time ago that using a jewelers fiberglass pen to scour you contact points (gently) and being liberal with the flux helps a LOT. Afterwards, clean up your flux with some 91% or better isopropyl alcohol as flux tends to corrode contact points.

The reason I reccomend shortening your wires is that it will provide less resistance on the lead in question.

After than go over the default DIP setting, if that doesnt work then you get the fun of trying all the different tested and successful DIP settings until you hit paydirt. The postbit jumper setting sometimes helps too. I see you have yours set at default, try out the 10ohm setting as I've had the most success with that and a 30uf disc capacitor.

EDIT

Concerning the lifted solder point, see if you have any kind of a copper trace left next to it that you might possibly be able to LIGHTLY scratch with a x-acto knife to expose the copper, dab it with some flux, tin it, and if you have decent soldering skills, line the wire up on top of the exposed trace, solder it in, then if successful, put a dab of really good glue E6000 works great for that kind of repair. Don't do it at the end of the trace because that will eventuall peel off. Do it with at least a 1/8 inch from the end where you're going to solder.

 

 Will it be safe to seal up the joints with hot glue so that they don't get a chance to move? And if yes, will it be a problem if it covers up some of the surrounding components and solder points? And i'm not entirely sure whether the glue sticks i have is E6000

 

[Swizzy 2084]

You can cover the joints with hot glue, but i don't recommend doing that with anything that's not going to be permanent, meaning, only do it for the repair(s) you just did, leave the normal ones as they are...

It's fine to cover the other components aswell, but, try to avoid it as if you need access to those components later on it'll be a pain to get to it

[StaticPulse 262]

Exactly what Swizzy said, I myself don't like using hot glue but its also doable. I'm glad you were able to get it to work again. I just like  E6000 because it can be used as glass epoxy for ceramics.

[MrKronic 7]

So yea, got a new problem. I put everything back together in the metal shell after flashing xebuild image rechecking, but this time the console doesn't power on at all. It just makes a beep whenever I switch on the mains, but otherwise it doesn't respond at all :/ The CR4 seems to be getting power though. The only thing I could think of that might be causing this is a short somewhere. I'm not sure, but could it have something to do with removing the JRP cables from the NAND points with the board in the casing (no qsb so I soldered it to the points)? Any other insights into what might be causing this?

[Swizzy 2084]

So yea, got a new problem. I put everything back together in the metal shell after flashing xebuild image rechecking, but this time the console doesn't power on at all. It just makes a beep whenever I switch on the mains, but otherwise it doesn't respond at all :/ The CR4 seems to be getting power though. The only thing I could think of that might be causing this is a short somewhere. I'm not sure, but could it have something to do with removing the JRP cables from the NAND points with the board in the casing (no qsb so I soldered it to the points)? Any other insights into what might be causing this?

Many things can cause such a problem... did you try taking it back out of the case? does it work if you do that? did it work after you flashed the image or did you not check that before putting it back into the metal case?

[MrKronic 7]

Not yet actually. Otherwise the console was working fine before I reinstalled the hard drive and cables and the other innards. The only thing that crosses my mind would be the NAND points; I desoldered the JRP cables with the motherboard inside the casing, but I cleaned it up properly though.
 

[Swizzy 2084]

remove the case from the equation, it's not required for the motherboard to work, if it works fine without that, then you should look into what's shorting with the case, if it still don't work, look for shorts near every soldering point you've been dealing with...

[StaticPulse 262]

Not yet actually. Otherwise the console was working fine before I reinstalled the hard drive and cables and the other innards. The only thing that crosses my mind would be the NAND points; I desoldered the JRP cables with the motherboard inside the casing, but I cleaned it up properly though.

 

If you routed the wires that go underthe board through the screw holes next to the ones by the  x-clamps, hopefully when you re-assembled it you didn't put the long case screws into the holes that you routed the wires through. THat can tear them and expose the wires, grounding it to the screw which would cause a problem. Usually one beep and no start is indicative of the area by the HANA or the Southbridge.

What I'd do is post updated pics of your work, and of all areas of your motherboard, preferably in a good resolution to where it can be seen of what physical issues may still be there.

 

I've never had an issue with the NAND points still being connected on a Power-up and they even have the NAND extension that is permanantly soldered, so I don't think that's your problem.

 

POST UPDATED PICS OF YOUR WORK

[MrKronic 7]

If you routed the wires that go underthe board through the screw holes next to the ones by the  x-clamps, hopefully when you re-assembled it you didn't put the long case screws into the holes that you routed the wires through. THat can tear them and expose the wires, grounding it to the screw which would cause a problem. Usually one beep and no start is indicative of the area by the HANA or the Southbridge.

What I'd do is post updated pics of your work, and of all areas of your motherboard, preferably in a good resolution to where it can be seen of what physical issues may still be there.

 

I've never had an issue with the NAND points still being connected on a Power-up and they even have the NAND extension that is permanantly soldered, so I don't think that's your problem.

 

POST UPDATED PICS OF YOUR WORK

Well, I didn't use any of the screw holes, I used one of the JTAG holes. But I am absolutely sure that the wire is intact, unless there is some other factor in play.

Since this is a Corona, I presume there isn't a HANA, so it might be somewhere around the Southbridge. I've brushed up the points a bit more to see if any of them was the problem, but to no avail.

Here are the pics. I hope they clarify things though.

[StaticPulse 262]

Well, I didn't use any of the screw holes, I used one of the JTAG holes. But I am absolutely sure that the wire is intact, unless there is some other factor in play.

Since this is a Corona, I presume there isn't a HANA, so it might be somewhere around the Southbridge. I've brushed up the points a bit more to see if any of them was the problem, but to no avail.

Here are the pics. I hope they clarify things though.

IMG_20151116_020315.jpgIMG_20151116_020353.jpgIMG_20151116_020416.jpgIMG_20151116_020438.jpgIMG_20151116_020518.jpgIMG_20151116_020549.jpgIMG_20151116_020621.jpg

Looks good from what I can see, maybe check for any bridged solder joints, or debris that might be causing it to short?

[MrKronic 7]

Looks good from what I can see, maybe check for any bridged solder joints, or debris that might be causing it to short?

Way ahead of you. That was one of the first things I checked for as soon as I took it out of the casing. Even so, if there was a bridge somewhere, wouldnt the problem present itself earlier?

The only thing I remember doing right before putting everything back together was to desolder the NAND-X cable. The motherboard was in the metal shell at that moment, but again, I made sure there wasn't any debris or cross connections afterwards.

Any resistor or points I can check for continuity to find faults?

[StaticPulse 262]

Way ahead of you. That was one of the first things I checked for as soon as I took it out of the casing. Even so, if there was a bridge somewhere, wouldnt the problem present itself earlier?

The only thing I remember doing right before putting everything back together was to desolder the NAND-X cable. The motherboard was in the metal shell at that moment, but again, I made sure there wasn't any debris or cross connections afterwards.

Any resistor or points I can check for continuity to find faults?

Now that you mention it, there is a small SMD resistor by where you would solder the NAND points, on the bottom I think (I only have a slim trinity board for reference so I could be wrong) but check to see if R2C8 is properly in place, just look and see if its on straight or if its crooked from maybe some impact damage.

I remember once while repairing someone's console that that resistor was slightly off and as it turned out one side had a cracked solder joint. Maybe yours does too. Not sure, if it looks fine don't screw with it. as far as SMD capacitors go, you can only test the for faults when they're not soldered to anything. Maybe get in there with a magnifying glass and look for visible thermal damage?

Point being, I thought possible short or bridged contact because you said it worked up until desoldering your NAND wires. Maybe check your wire patch, did you use flux like I suggested? Did the solder take hold or is it floating above the area you soldered? Don't tug the wires maybe lightly nudge them with a small plastic probe? If they're stationary, then move on to the next area of the board where you were working.

[Swizzy 2084]

Well, I didn't use any of the screw holes, I used one of the JTAG holes. But I am absolutely sure that the wire is intact, unless there is some other factor in play.

Since this is a Corona, I presume there isn't a HANA, so it might be somewhere around the Southbridge. I've brushed up the points a bit more to see if any of them was the problem, but to no avail.

Here are the pics. I hope they clarify things though.

IMG_20151116_020315.jpgIMG_20151116_020353.jpgIMG_20151116_020416.jpgIMG_20151116_020438.jpgIMG_20151116_020518.jpgIMG_20151116_020549.jpgIMG_20151116_020621.jpg

Your CPU_RST repairs isn't the best, the wire should definitely NOT go under the x-clamp, it'll quite likely be crushed by the x-clamp at some point... i would suggest making that one slightly longer so it goes where the x-clamp isn't going to damage it...

Another possible reason for the failure is NAND corruption, if you didn't start it after writing, maybe the write didn't go quite as planned, i would suggest you connect the NAND cables again, do a full erase, write the image once again and dump it, if the data is a 1:1 match and it's still not booting up, it's probably a hardware problem... i recall you saying you didn't test it before putting it back in the case? did you at all test it after writing the image?