StaticPulse

That's pretty dope!

That or pay out the ass for your next "Latest and greatest" console...... Also, I think AMD actually does a much better job with applications such as these anyways.

I personally think that Aurora was done extremely well and all of its developers left in a LOT of room for growth! Don't get me wrong FSD is nice, and I really did like the dash interface, but with the memory issues that Swizzy mentioned awhile ago I really don't think the aesthetics of the previous dashboard or even the previous features should be seen as a deal breaker. Eventually they will most likely integrate all of the stuff that many users have complained about not being currently present in Aurora. Give them time, they'll make the whole community proud as they've worked very hard to bring this breakthrough to everyone for nothing but the cost of time, effort, and dedication that they have all invested into this community project. For help, asking the community is cool and all but I do strongly encourage everyone new to Aurora to read the TuTs. They arent there to just take up server space you know and there are a lot of really good nuggets of information that many people should know about. Which reminds me, now that I have a friggin job I think I owe RMS some dues. I'll have something donated out of appreciation hopefully this weekend.

You know AMD is making a killing off of all these console sales though..

And by the time it's feasible, the next M$ console will already be out. It totally blew me away that they're planning on releasing them two years from now. what a shitty lifespan for "Next-Gen" technology..... Well... two years before the prototypes are finished....... Still though.....

As far as I know from team xecuter, they did dump the NAND and they have dumped a 40GB game Check this forum thread for more information http://team-xecuter.com/forums/forums/247-Xbox-One-Scene-News

Fuck Sony and MS with their Sega-esque business model of their newest plan on releasing their next consoles http://www.techradar.com/us/news/gaming/consoles/amd-believes-the-ps5-and-xbox-two-will-launch-sooner-than-you-probably-think-1252546 With Nintendo saving all the money they did on doing Wii-U with ten year old technology, I really think the NX is going to be REVOLUTIONARY! http://www.techradar.com/us/news/gaming/nintendo-nx-release-date-news-and-rumors-1289401 Not to say that Xbox and Playstation don't look cool but on this one I'm rolling with the OG Console guys. This is what they are speculating the next Mario will look like. Thoughts on this anyone?

Might be able to JTAG the phat if it's dash version is the right one.

Thats pretty epic! It would definitely make the storage hack a lot easier I think. I've been procrastinating so much on it. I really should put some time aside and actually complete the three mod projects that I have lined up. XBox Classic, Dreamcast, and finish tinkering with my jailbroken PS3. I really feel like I'm turning into a bit of a hoarder these days... hahaha!!! By the way, concerning the PSIO storage capacity. I really think it should be up to 380-400GB max. Would make archival libraries one solid collection.

Yeah, it would be a full on hack, but man.... That'd be BADASS! You'd be the only person on the block with local storage via usb on whatever retro console you had.

So you'd have to emulate an x86 in order to inject boot code into it in order to launch romfiles? Thats pretty nifty, but it sucks that you have to emulate another platform in order to launch it.. I was thinking more or less write a custom USB driver for the PS1 architecture that would just allow you to boot to the stick instead, bypassing the other stuff. It's been a long time so maybe some of the original source is available for modification? But then you are confined to your hardware resources and offhand I'm not sure what those are for the PS1. When I say what I said, I was referring to all retro consoles in general, and that it might be doable, just takes a lot of hard work, patience, and a sharp mind. You'd probably need to know assembly for older consoles I think.

There's gotta be a way to do an internal mod for usb or microSD on them, if the cart can do it then it should be totally possible to do it hardwired internally to the board and just cut something out of the side of the console with a dremmel for a USB port (I hope.) That would be EPIC I think. I love old console's as they were always easier to reverse engineer, matter of fact, I need to get an oldschool Commodore C=64 and do the piggyback SID hack and the other mods to turn it into a 486DX2, well, the same processing power with internal hard drive NIC and CDROM . That would be so cool, just to have with a floating point processor on it. http://www.mikesenese.com/DOIT/2011/03/twelve-awesome-commodore-64-hacks-and-projects-and-a-gallery-of-classic-c64-game-discs/ http://www.64hdd.com/c64-projects.html http://www.bigmech.com/misc/c64mods/audioinout.html You'd probably loved a hacked C=64 Swizzy, it fully runs on BASIC and has nothing that prevents you from "tinkering" I really wish there was one in production with modern architecture, such a wonderful platform that was open for literally ANYTHING!

Just re-wrtie ECC to boot XeLL and I think you should be good to go. If the problem replicates then there may possibly be heat damage? I had something similar happen to me with a Falcon once but it would freeze roughly five minutes after booting.

Now that you mention it, there is a small SMD resistor by where you would solder the NAND points, on the bottom I think (I only have a slim trinity board for reference so I could be wrong) but check to see if R2C8 is properly in place, just look and see if its on straight or if its crooked from maybe some impact damage. I remember once while repairing someone's console that that resistor was slightly off and as it turned out one side had a cracked solder joint. Maybe yours does too. Not sure, if it looks fine don't screw with it. as far as SMD capacitors go, you can only test the for faults when they're not soldered to anything. Maybe get in there with a magnifying glass and look for visible thermal damage? Point being, I thought possible short or bridged contact because you said it worked up until desoldering your NAND wires. Maybe check your wire patch, did you use flux like I suggested? Did the solder take hold or is it floating above the area you soldered? Don't tug the wires maybe lightly nudge them with a small plastic probe? If they're stationary, then move on to the next area of the board where you were working.

Looks good from what I can see, maybe check for any bridged solder joints, or debris that might be causing it to short?

Same situation with all those SD card cartridges. It's going to be nice when someone finally reverse engineers them and starts making their own, forcing the price down. I can understand getting your money's worth, but some of those guys are just plain greedy...

Which version of XM360 are you using?

Heh heh heh, you're really looking forward to this one, I can tell! Reminds me much of myself with my OCD quest in obtaining retro hardware and hacking the shit out of all of them just so I can showcase them one day and say "See all that there? You'll never have cool stuff like that because my antique shit is just plain cooler!" hahahahah! Many of my friends are like "Why are you doing this if you can already emulate it on a xbox classic, 360, or jailbroken ps3?" I'm like "Because I can and because its cool!" I just wish the cartridge SD memory units for NES/SNES/GENESIS were cheaper or if someone made a cartridge hack that allowed a microSD interface Internally, so I could just turn it on without a cart and still get the same stuff.

If you routed the wires that go underthe board through the screw holes next to the ones by the x-clamps, hopefully when you re-assembled it you didn't put the long case screws into the holes that you routed the wires through. THat can tear them and expose the wires, grounding it to the screw which would cause a problem. Usually one beep and no start is indicative of the area by the HANA or the Southbridge. What I'd do is post updated pics of your work, and of all areas of your motherboard, preferably in a good resolution to where it can be seen of what physical issues may still be there. I've never had an issue with the NAND points still being connected on a Power-up and they even have the NAND extension that is permanantly soldered, so I don't think that's your problem. POST UPDATED PICS OF YOUR WORK

Exactly what Swizzy said, I myself don't like using hot glue but its also doable. I'm glad you were able to get it to work again. I just like E6000 because it can be used as glass epoxy for ceramics.

First off, here: http://www.se7ensins.com/forums/threads/sin-hds-ultimate-jtag-rgh-install-guide-w-the-cr4-xl.1235020/ Secondly, from what I saw, I'd tin your wire leads and cut them a bit shorter, then I'd keep the wires for the install as short as possible. I learned a long long time ago that using a jewelers fiberglass pen to scour you contact points (gently) and being liberal with the flux helps a LOT. Afterwards, clean up your flux with some 91% or better isopropyl alcohol as flux tends to corrode contact points. The reason I reccomend shortening your wires is that it will provide less resistance on the lead in question. After than go over the default DIP setting, if that doesnt work then you get the fun of trying all the different tested and successful DIP settings until you hit paydirt. The postbit jumper setting sometimes helps too. I see you have yours set at default, try out the 10ohm setting as I've had the most success with that and a 30uf disc capacitor. EDIT Concerning the lifted solder point, see if you have any kind of a copper trace left next to it that you might possibly be able to LIGHTLY scratch with a x-acto knife to expose the copper, dab it with some flux, tin it, and if you have decent soldering skills, line the wire up on top of the exposed trace, solder it in, then if successful, put a dab of really good glue E6000 works great for that kind of repair. Don't do it at the end of the trace because that will eventuall peel off. Do it with at least a 1/8 inch from the end where you're going to solder.

The game refused to scan on USB0, I finally got it working on HDD1, was a bit confused since most of my 360 titles are on USB0 and they work just fine and xm360 detects and unlocks those. BOPS3 wouldnt. Its good to go now and the fakelive trick works. Weird thing though is I had to disable fakelive for Minecraft to get it to work...... I'm having a bit of a problem getting it to run on my buddies Jasper but I think thats more of a kernal and dashlaunch version issue which I don't have the time to update as I have to head out to the bay area today.

Thats weird that it wouldnt scan into USB0 though, like most of my games are on that drive and they all scanned in just fine. Anyways, thanks for all the support Quattro and Swizzy! Would've probably wanted to punt my console like a football over such a simple oversight on my part. And yeah, I definitely agree with Felida on this one, the in-game graphics look like shit.

Ok, so then everyone needs to do the TU manually then or put it on HDD1?

I put mine on USB0's Content folder and I'm having problems getting Aurora to scan it. It executes fine, working on the CP now, but I think I'd like to manually do the TU if I can't get it to scan into my library. I have the non-GOD version.