For better or worse I'm going to post up my CR3 Lite to CR3 Pro upgrade. Who knows, might help somebody or something ^-^.
First, let me start out with a quick few notes before we start. This very well may end up reading a bit more like a narrative than a tutorial because it follows more of my experience than it does the technical aspects. I've done this install time and time again, over plenty of revisions of hardware including the original seedstudios chip. This upgrade was not needed in my case as I had my Corona v3 glitching in 1-3 cycles on a CR3 Lite, even if there were hiccups along the way (You'll see). Why did I do it then? Well, to say that I have, and, more importantly, for the experience. Right, so let's begin.
First off, we need to open the console (again in my case >_<). While I won't go too in depth about this I will share a few notes that I have in which the CR3 Pro Ultimate Kit helped. Included in the kit was a "xclamp tool", now I have no issue whatsoever with the xclamps and as such I shrugged this little sucker off. That was until somebody clued me in to the fact that it was also helpful in the way my phat case opening tool was.
I'm sure TX did this on purpose but I guess I just missed the memo. Works brilliantly to take the grill off without damaging the plastic.
Worked great in removing the retaining clip under that and the case clips. Well played TX, well played.
Fast forward a bit and we're in, let's compare the old kit to the new kit. (Ignore the ghetto sonus)
As you can see my CR3 Lite had a slight issue, When I got the device the phat/slim switch was very hard to slide in either direction. In fiddling with timing and config the switch simply exploded due to the force placed upon it. This meant that I now had to pick a side and stay there (or break out the iron).
The V3 Corona QSB (Quick solder board) was already in place and while I despise them, I don't think they require an explanation as to how they are used. The CR3 Lite required 3.3V while the Pro requires 5.0V. Make sure you make this change, if you're using a QSB you need to change the point on the QSB and not so much the header.
Right about here is where you probably need to hook up your new JRP2 and play around in JRunner. From left to right with the buttons on the top. I'm sure you can find a dedicated tut on how to use JRunner.
New to me was the bottom QSB, and now to the reason I don't like these things. Once you tack half of it down, lifting it often causes more trouble than it's worth. Here's the end result and the trace I lifted and had to repair when I got froggy. Be careful.
Okay, so QSBs are attached. Time to wire up the CR3 Pro (Not too proud of the wiring here but I don't care much what it looks like if I can't see it. Plus this is my personal console, I can forgo the extra mile.)
From here you get to play the wire length and cap game. I was able to cheat a bit with a capacitance substitution box but you'll probably have to play the switch-a-roo game detailed in the install guide at TX. Make sure you wire everything back up, HDD, Wifi, everything. You'll see the difference the cap can make in my RATER shot, so make sure you mess around if you're not happy.