Anonymous

I don't argue with foolish thought people so go to hell[emoji34]

Here is I did not post for my publicity ,,I did post for noobs so mind your own bussiness

http://www.realmodscene.com/index.php?/topic/2090-f3-rev-775/ Sent from my Xperia Miro using Tapatalk Settings-System settings-security - enable http& ftp server Sent from my Xperia Miro using Tapatalk

team fsdSent from my Xperia Miro using Tapatalk

How did u fix that?? Sent from my Xperia Miro using Tapatalk

Thats for retail console,Your console was Rgh modded right? 16756dash officially not released for glitch console so u need to wait for few days nw you need to write 16747 for your Rgh console Sent from my Xperia Miro using Tapatalk

This tutorial will show you how to install an internal microphone to your xbox 360 controller. Doing this will make using a headset a thing of the past. WARNING!!! THIS MOD WILL VOID YOUR WARRANTY AND YOUR CONTROLLER CAN BE DAMAGED IN THE PROCESS. I TAKE NO RESPONSIBILITY FOR EITHER OF THESE, NOR AM I RESPONSIBLE FOR YOUR PARENT'S COUCH CUSHIONS. PROCEED AT YOUR OWN RISK. Side Note: You will have to enable voice to be played out of your tv's speakers. This can be done through preferences in the xbox 360 dashboard. Tools need: Dremel or drill with small drill bit Soldering Iron Desoldering tool Solder Small flat head screw driver Hot glue gun razor blade (optional) Parts needed: Xbox 360 controller (any type) Cotton or soft foam (optional, I used toilet paper) Small Microphone (I used one from an old laptop, but any small mic should work.) Step 1: Disasembly First use the small flat head screw driver the remove the seven screws from the controller. One of them is hidden under the battery pack and a sticker. Don't waste your time trying to remove the sticker, just stab your screw driver through it. Once the screws are out pull the top half of the controller off while the buttons are facing the ground. This will prevent the buttons from falling all over the floor. You can tape the buttons down from the top of the controller, but we will be removing them temporarily anyway so I skipped this. Pull the motherboard out and disconnect the tumble motors Step 2: Controller motherboard preparation Once the motherboard is removed we need to desolder the headset jack. This is the port at the bottom of the controller. I prefer to remove this all together, or at least the middle section of it, because there is a hardware mute switch in the headset jack that will only enable the mic to work if a headset is plugged in. Removing the jack leaves this circuit open. There are two small plastic clips that hold the jack in as well the soldered pins. Just pinch them to remove. Make sure that you only desolder the eight small pins in the middle and leave the two large pins on the sides alone. The two large pins are for the batteries. Side Note: Removing the headset jack eliminates your ability to use the keyboard add on with your controller. I will cover how to fix this at the end of the tutorial. Step 3: Mic placement Before we proceed with this mod take a second to inspect your controllers motherboard and the inside of the top half of the controller case. You are looking for the best place to glue your microphone. I personally prefer to put my mic in the middle to avoid it being covered by my hands while playing. The older controllers have a clock in the middle of the motherboard that will get in the way of placing the mic in its ideal spot, so on these controllers I have put the mic at the bottom of the controller. The new controllers, IE the ones that come with new 360 don't have anything in the middle of the motherboard. If you have an older controller and need to place the mic at the bottom you will have to do a little extra work to get the mic the fit. Some plastic will need to be shaved off. (see picture) Now it is time to drill the mic hole. I prefer to use a dremel with a small drill bit, but a regular drill will work. Just make sure that you are very careful not to damage the case. The hole does not need to be that big at all, in fact I like to keep it pretty small the reduce the chances of stuff getting in to the controller, such as liquid. OPTIONAL: After I drill the hole I take a razor blade and shave around the inside edge of the hole for cometic reasons. Step 4: Adding the Mic At this point you should have the headset jack removed from the motherboard and the pin holes are open. In the middle of the eight pins the your just desoldered there are four pins that make the shape of a rectangle. The two on the right are for the mic, while the two on the left are for the speaker (and the hardware mute). The pin closest to the bottom of the motherboard on the right is the mic ground and the pin above it is the mic positive. I assume that you know which is which on the mic you have selected for this mod. Solder your mic according. Remember to leave an appropriate amount of wire if you are gluing the mic somewhere else on the controller. BEFORE we glue the mic down it is a good idea to test the controller first. The safest way to do this is to put the motherboard back in the plastic casing, without putting the smaller plastic piece, between the two halves of the case at the bottom, back on. Just let the mic hang out. Log into xbox live with the game of your choice and start speaking. Depending on the game you are using there should be some type of indicator to tell you that you are making noise. For better testing asking someone to describe the quality of your voice to you. Test this with the tv volume at its normal volume and remember how sensitive the mic is when picking up noise while holding the controller the way you normally would while playing. If they can't here you and your noise indicator isn't showing that you are making noise then you either soldered the pins wrong or the mic that you chose is broken. This is why this is a very important step! Now it is time to glue. Depending on your controller and/or mic placement preference glue the mic to the motherboard directly underneath the top half of the case where you drilled the mic hole. Be sure to not use to much glue, but just enough the hold the mic in place. Also be sure to put glue on the bottom side of the mic were it's terminals are in order to insulate it from the circuitry of the controller motherboard. Side Note: In my first internal mic project I glued the mic the the plastic of the controller case but this proved to be a pain reassembly and disassembling the controller later Step 5: Re-enabling keyboard attachment use If you would like to use the keyboard attachment with your controller you will need to do some further modification. First take the headset jack that you removed a few steps back and remove the four pins in the middle of it. The easiest way to to pull them out with needle nose pliers. Be sure to leave the two sets of two pins on the sides intact. Solder the pins the were not removed back in their original holes. These four pins are for the keyboard attachments power and data. OPTIONAL: Depending on how you ran the wiring for the mic, you may or may not want to use a cutting tool, like a dremel, to remove the middle section of the headset jack rather than use removing the four middle pins. Instead of removing all of the plastic and dividing the headset jack into two pieces you may want to just cut the small tunnel in the middle into a trench, so to speak. Step 6: Finishing touches Before we reassemble the controller we need to add something for noise reduction. This step isn't absolutely necessary but it is very helpful later. I ask you in the last step to remember how sensitive the mic is. Use this to determine if you should put cotton or foam between the mic hole and the mic. This will greatly help with noise reduction and it does not take a lot. If you are using foam make sure not to use anything too thick. You want foam similar to that found in couch cushions. Please do not rip apart your parents couch cushions. This also helps to prevent things like liquid from getting into the controller as easily through the mic hole. You can test different amounts of cotton or foam by putting some in the controller and putting the controller back together, then signing into xbox live and testing the sensitivity again. Be sure to test the mic while holding the controller in the normal way that you always hold it. Once you are happy with your advanced noise reduction system, you can reassemble the controller by putting everything back in place and reinserting the screws. You should now have a xbox 360 controller with a fully functional internal microphone. Don't forget to go into your xbox 360 preferences and change voice to play audio through tv speakers, otherwise you won't be able to hear anybody else. here is mine fb page https://m.facebook.com/www.box360play.blogspot.in?_rdr

https://www.google.co.in/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&ei=gECcU7_DNpeVuAS5mIHADA&url=http://www.4shared.com/rar/7GzgjJvSce/AutoGG_093_-_Dash_16747.htm%3Flocale%3Den&cd=4&ved=0CCQQFjAD&usg=AFQjCNGxZRH8iCt13_1bwDkBM9lruCCULQ&sig2=mcye8G2z7w0m45RxpMSVhQ Sent from my Xperia Miro using Tapatalk

http://www.realmodscene.com/index.php?/topic/3247-16747-dashboard-update-via-wifi-connection#entry24640 Sent from my Xperia Miro using Tapatalk

16756 is not officially released so it's risk for your console ,u need to update 16747 dashboard I think u didn't read that tutorial it's OK ,I'll give some easy Tut first thing u need to read your hacked nand andthen(take another copy of your hackednand for backup bcz u did wrongly anything this backup will help for ur console) next thing modified dash update afterthen write to your console it was normal procedure for updating dashboard Sent from my Xperia Miro using Tapatalk

Read this http://forum.homebrew-connection.org/index.php?topic=144 Sent from my Xperia Miro using Tapatalk

Goto settings-general settings and tick receive updates & enable beta updates afterthat back to fsd Home . Andthen Goto settings-updates- tick that 3 required tab and hit y Button Sent from my Xperia Miro using Tapatalk

It's not a tu problem,, Sent from my Xperia Miro using Tapatalk

Required Content is Located in Disc 1 and it's mandatory to install it in order to play the game and will be installed in-game which is approximately over 7.5GB in size. Disc 1 is required to be in GOD Format or Burned to a DVD in order to get the game to prompt the installation of the Required Contents which will take roughly around 40 minutes. After Installation is completed, You may either keep or delete Disc 1 in order to save space and load the game using Disc 2. You may play all 4 Discs as DVDs or in GOD Format. If you're playing it in Extracted Format (.xex), FSD is recommended for its auto disc swap feature. (Only Disc 2-4 are excepted in Extracted Format whereas Disc 1 has to be in GOD Format or as a DVD Otherwise you will not be prompted for the installation of the Required Contents) Game is tested using Disc 1 in GOD Format and Disc 2-4 in Extracted Format (.xex). (Minimum Dashboard Version Required: v2.0.16537.0) Required Content is Compatible with the following Xbox 360 Configured/Formatted Storage Devices: USB Stick. Internal Hard Drive. External Hard Drive. The folder structure used is as follows: Games \ Wolfenstein The New Order \ Disc 1 \ GOD Files. Games \ Wolfenstein The New Order \ Disc 2 \ Extracted Files. Games \ Wolfenstein The New Order \ Disc 3 \ Extracted Files. Games \ Wolfenstein The New Order \ Disc 4 \ Extracted Files. (Required Content Installation will be Automated in-game but for your curiosity, Here's a reference for the file location). Folder Structure for Required Content Installation: (Example) Hdd1 \ Content \ 0000000000000000 \ 425307F5 \ 00000001 \ content_file_1.bin (Required Content 1) (Example) Hdd1 \ Content \ 0000000000000000 \ 425307F5 \ 00000001 \ content_file_2.bin (Required Content 2) *The game runs fine with FSD and DashLaunch and has no problem so far. Tested on: XBOX 360 Slim 4GB Corona RGH Glitch 2 Dash: 16747 320GB Internal Hard Drive(OEM/Third Party) FSD 3 rev 775 xexmenu DashLaunch 3.12 (This Tutorial May Apply To RGH/JTAG Users Only)

RROD System Check Secondary Error Code Hi Everyone, This tut will explain to you how to check your xbox 360 for secondary 3 RROD error codes. I am explaining in step by step form how to help get your 360 fixed by a professional and the information they will need to better diagnose your xbox360s symptoms. First what you will want to do is turn on your xbox 360 and let the 3 RROD appear. Secondly you will want to hold down your Sync Button the little white button next to the power button make sure you hold this at all times. Thirdly you will want to tap your eject button one time and count the number of lights that flash. Then tap the eject button again and count the lights, do this a third and fourth time counting the lights on the fifth eject press it should go back to the 3 RROD blinking lights. Examples of the code lights are 4 lights flashing = 0 3 lights flashing = 3 2 lights flashing = 2 1 light flashing = 1 So say you have an error code of 0102 this is an over heating of the GPU error code. This error code will help the person who is fixing your xbox 360 narrow down the problem and better get your 360 fixed correctly. Here is a list of some the secondary 3RROD error codes that are known. 0001 Power problem, probably a short somewhere, or the psu 0002 Power problem, probably a short somewhere, or the psu 0003 Power problem, probably a short somewhere, or the psu 0010 over heating 0011 over heating - If you are receiving this error after disassembling your console make sure to all 8 of the heatsync screws are tightened securely to the board/heatsink holes. 0012 over heating 0013 over heating 0020 (possibly overheating) 0021 DVD Drive Time out - Can be caused by problems with a firmware flash. This is also speculated to sometime be caused by a problem with the southbridge chipset on the motherboard. 0022 GPU Error / GPU Overheating 0023 (not yet known) ... 0101 GPU OVER HEATING 0102 GPU OVER HEATING though it's most likely GPU related literally means the console does not know what is wrong. possibly a short or cold solder joint somewhere. So far there is 1 major theory for what causes most of these errors is that the Ram, CPU, or GPU are not soldered properly to the mother board due either to poor manufacturing or excessive heat up and cool down cycles that stress, weaken and eventually break the soldered connection. There are two theories to fixing this one deals with the "X" clamps that hold down the chips. The other involves re-Heating the chips. DO NOT attempt either of these if your console is still under warranty. If your console is still under warranty return it to the store where it was purchased or call MS to have it replaced. I have also heard of limited success by simply switching the AV cable from "HDTV" mode to "TV" mode. 0103 CPU Error/ CPU Overheating - see solution for error 0102 0110 Memory Error / Memory Overheating - see solution for error 0102 ... 0200 (not yet known) ... 1000 (not yet known) 1001 (not yet known) 1002 (not yet known) 1003 Hard Drive Error... It could be a problem with the Hard Drive itself or a problem with the internal connection to the hard drive, Try removing the hard drive and playing without it 1010 Hard Drive Error, Can be caused by a corrupt or missing eProm. 1011 (not yet known) 1012 (not yet known) 1013 (not yet known) possibly a dashboard update error 1020 (not yet known) 1021 (not yet known) 1022 AV cable error... There is a problem with the AV cable, try using a different AV cable. (could also be a problem with the encoder chip) 1023 DVD drive not connected, connect DVD drive to boot 1030 (not yet known) 1031 (not yet known) 1032 (not yet known) 1033 (not yet known)

It's possible for glitch I am using this method via usb flash drive ,this is easy way for access dlc but no idea for original dashboard Sent from my Xperia Miro using Tapatalk

Open your dash launch nd go to the network tab disable live strong nd save this settings afterthen u can download all covers Sent from my Xperia Miro using Tapatalk

Follow my instruction maybe your problem was solved Use New thermalpaste for your GPU and CPU Set your fan speed to 75 May be u need reballing processes for your gbu nd cpu Sent from my Xperia Miro using Tapatalk

Reflash again maybe your problem was solved Sent from my Xperia Miro using Tapatalk

I am in tu 14,I already cleared my previous tu, basically tu 14 only can support invasion dlc I knw that,,but still devastations map didn't showup ,, Got it,,I was reinstalled all cod content nw everything working gud,, my headache was over anyway thank you for your reply brother [emoji106][emoji2] Again that fcukin problem was came,,,I am sooo confused for this issue anyone can help ME This time I am not get any warning msgs ,, Sent from my Xperia Miro using Tapatalk

I am using all the latest stuffs for my cod ghost my problem was invasion and devastation not show up at the same time what the hell was I am missing I don't knw , if I was deleted my invasion dlc no problem with working for devastation dlc, if I was deleted my devastation dlc invasion map was working fine, here is my cod ghost content Sent from my Xperia Miro using Tapatalk

How many seasion passes did u use for that all dlc ,, ?? Sent from my Xperia Miro using Tapatalk Can u show me some screen shot for your cod ghost content directory

u cannot usethat three dlc at the same time,if you want to use youre invasion dlc which u need to delete your devastation dlc bcz compatiblity 2 pack is can support either one

i think u r asking abt external hdd,,, you need to download EaseUS Partition Master 10.0 app for ur pc andthen format your hardrive for fat32

U http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=f5abMi-EqK4 GET READY FOR INVASION, THE THIRD DLC PACK FOR CALL OF DUTY®: GHOSTS FEATURING: FOUR UNIQUE MULTIPLAYER MAPS, AND EPISODE 3: AWAKENING – THE NEXT INSTALLMENT IN EXTINCTION’S FOUR-PART EPISODIC NARRATIVE. requirement Update to the latest dashboard, dashlaunch and FSD. You might need to delete previous Title Updates. You also need the Season Pass, Compatibility Packs and TU14