alxskater

Yeah, it's a samsung, there is no need to restore stock, just go for lt sammy directly...

But When I go to "MTK flash 32" and "intro / Device ID" and press "ok" (disconnecting the device and reconnecting in less of 1 sec) it don't be detected again by the JF, and have to restart the console to be able to see the drive again.

Am I doing something wrong?

Thanks

So, the drive is still a Samsung, but it shows up as a Hitachi now? then the a-hole flashed a spoofed firmware, it's reporting hitachi but is samsung... (doesn't work on the new dashboards)

I think i can be sure that the drive is an Samsung, because have the same tray design and the driver is recognized by an Samsung drive. The drive is working with LT 2.0 (tested with XGD2 disk and original too)

Can I restore to an Samsung firmware? Should I apply Samsung stock and then flash With Summy 2.01? (I saw that the last firmware for Hitachi Drives is 2.0+).

Thanks

I've worked with this shit for 6 years, and i've NEVER restored it back to stock before updating the kernel or anything like that, none of our customers have come back with a ban caused by this, however... they've been banned for other reasons like playing games long before release and such...

Bottom line; it's a redundant step done by paranoid ppl

I Dont understand....

I send the drive to an asshle and now the driver dont appear like "TSST corp" appear as HL-DT-ST.

Im following this guide ( http://team-xecuter.com/video/hitachi/non79/ ) but cant get to vendor mode.

Is the LT 2.0 the last version for that driver?

Thanks

The video you linked to is specifically for Litoen DG16-D2S, that part will NOT work on your samsung...

It should show up in Jungleflasher no matter what state it's in, however, the tray half open trick is used on some older CFW's for samsung, same goes for a 0800 disc (activate.iso) ultimately tho, it comes down to the chipset used wether or not it works... if you can't find it Jungleflasher with the chipset you are using right now, you'll have to find a different one...

Hi Swizzy,

The dashboard is with the last version ( Fat Samsung ms28 with LT 2.0). I tried to update the driver to LT 2.01 with "summy unlock", but always says "step 1 fail" (the driver was recognized but the key was, I read that sometimes when having troubles can be updated pressing "intro / Device ID" button.

Should I flash to stock version or just update to 2.01? because I read something like if I update some dash without going to stock it will be banned. Thanks.

If I install a new 70x70x11 cooler (2,16 W) in the case to let the air get in the console, is it a dump idea install it in the original xbox 360 coolers conector? (the original coolers are connected directly to the power supply and will install one 40x40x10 (1,32 W) directly to the CPU heatsink in the power supply too).

Thanks.

Sorry, i didn't know where i had to post it (now i know). Thanks

Was this xenon Jtag'd? Either way you can slap all the fans in there ya want (believe me I tried), it's not going to prevent a cold solder joint (causing a RROD). If you take power from the picture I provided, the fans will run at full speed, which I would recommend you do. If you wanted you could install some kind of fan controller, but that seems like overkill. I personally used to always just slap two 80mm fans over the CPU and GPU and call it a day. 

 

If your machine is JTAG'd, then you can just control the fan speed in dashlaunch. If it isn't Jtag'd and isn't running the blades dash, why are you even messing with a xenon? Just scrap it for parts or soldering practice and get yourself a Jasper board. They run cooler, use less power, don't red ring nearly as much and you can RGH them fairly easy. Good luck man. 

Why you are so hard with that board? I want to use to go live

I'm waiting for part to finish an dual nand Slim Corona, while waiting, I decided to keep this machine working.

Anyway... If I connect an 12v 0,12A with 3 cords to the motherboard coolers connector, does it should work?

For what it's worth I use 70mm laptop fans on all of the phat boxes that I service.  I wire these into the dvd tray. Red wire to one of the 12v lines on the tray and black wire to the 3.3v.  This gives me about 9v, which is nice since it isn't too noisy but is still pushing plenty of air.  I then mount the fan with a little hot glue to the air intake grill on the metal shielding of the top case.  This puts the fan directly above the GPU heatsink fin and keeps my GPU's constantly cooler than my CPU.  If you don't have the updated heatsink for the GPU with the extra fin, I'd say it's worth it to get one.  I keep my fans on auto and set my target temps to around 60 C in dashlaunch.  This avoids the hurricane of the 12v mod.  Finally, I always install an H-clamp to help keep my boards level, as a bonus this also helps knock a few degrees off due to the thermal pads that come with the H clamp that are directly under the gpu and cpu.  If you'd like I can post pics, good luck!

Thanks, I Will not install the Air Blower because did not fit correctly in the space between the front and the GPU heatsink. That why Im thinking to install 2 coolers, one of 40x40x10 blowing to the GPU heatsink (vertical) and another of 70x70x11 blowing in the console (horizontal) to enforce the air flush that go out with the back coolers (taking energy from the power supply)

Is that the updated heatsink you mean:

I will not be able to control the coolers myself, because i will have the original dash in that console.

Can you send me a picture or describe where do you install the 70x70 notebook cooler, please.

I personally don't like drawing power from anything other than the PSU itself. I was always paranoid of damaging a dvd drive or mosfet. Here's a diagram to help ya:

 

Is my fear too, that why I take energy directly from the power supply (for the back coolers).

If i have my back cooler taking energy from the power supply, can I add another coolers taking energy from the Xbox cooler power supply (picture in the post)? (to let the console control the added coolers and don't run at full speed all the time)

Hi, I want to install coolers in my xenon Xbox360 (saved from the ring of death), but I have some question.

I Found a very powerful Air Blower of 12V-1,32A. If I install it on the power supply solder connector, will not cause any electrical problem, because the electrical consumption depends of the power supply, is that right?

Should I install it in the Xbox360 back coolers connector to let the console set the speed depending the heat? (the air blower have 3 cords)

Where should I blow the air? to the GPU, the CPU or in the middle of both?

Info: The back coolers are taking energy from the power supply solder (always run at full speed).

info 2: In Arg we have 220V, that why I use an power supply of 110V-1kw

Can someone helps me?

Thanks.

Thanks!! I will see what can I find compatible with the xbox360 (Western Digital).

Use the same method as for LT+ 3.0, The thing about LT+ 3.0 is that it bypasses the AP2.5 security crap that MS added, but because Samsung's don't support it there's no need for it, it doesn't read those sectors... therefor, the games will work perfectly fine no matter what method of patch was applied (LT+ 3.0, LT+ 2.0 etc. it doesn't matter)

Hey Swizzy, do you know the limit of storage for an home made (2,5 WD notebook hdd in the ms case) hard drive in fat Xbox360?, i know that an 320 Gb have no problems, but its support an 500Gb hdd? (Ms now sell 500Gb hdd for slim sonsoles)

Oh, thanks for the advice. Do you gave some diagram? or something? I dont Want to screw an 4g motherboard XP.

OK. Think I will send the reader to someone smarter than me (or someone who have the ck3), cause I cant did it with an desktop machine (it recognized but fail in step 1 when search in port the device information and step 2 when making "summy unlock", made with the driver in normal state and with the half open tray too... and appear as no key found).

The Ck3 here is selling at 90 box aprox and send to flash it 20 box aprox (in USD). I dont think i will Use it again many times.

I will only finish the mod to help the air in and enforce the air out (with an external power line) and hope thats it (and waiting for my other console with dual nand (in the service trying to find an Trinity or compatible dual nand mother or wait to develop some way to use dual nand in corona 4g)

Thanks Swizzy.

If the Xbox drive have LT 2.01, when burn backups, how can i write it? if the isos in the web are in LT 3.0.

USBMU only works on 2.0.9199.0 and newer, it was introduced in 9199...

Oh, Perfect!!!.

Now i have the last dashboard, updated the dash with an usb memory and connected my xbox memory to have space to install the Upgrade.

Now i will borrow an desktop pc (I see in some tutorial that some xbox drivers have problems with the adapter Sata - USB).

Seriously, thanks man!! You helped me a lot

I still trying to update an xbox360 with Xenón board and original dash 2.0.8955.0 (LT 2.0).

I start trying to format an USB (usb 2.0 of 2Gb formatted from pc) but the console didnt read it (nothing in the (memorys screen), and then I plug an USB memory (the Xbox360 Kingston 16Gb memory unit) with profiles and data of other console, but didnt recognize it too (tested in all 3 ports).

I tested restarting it with and without the usb, but I didnt get it.

And then try to update with live connection (in the test connection to Live) but after starts, it says that have problems in the connection to Live (connected with a wire to the router and taking an automatic ip direction in the range I cinfigured in the router)

Can someone help me.

Thanks

I really apreseate your help Swizzy.

How can i keep the driver half opened? just ejecting with the Xbox and then power off and replacing de cords and have to still in the same position?.

Do i have to get to stock before updating or just update it?

The update of the dash have to be before or after the update of the LT?

Thanks again and sorry because Im a noob

If i keep the reader half open, does have be recognized by the computer?

If i put an swith to the power cord (in both indicated in the youtube tutorial), does have to work?

When im updating, do I have to set to stock before updating?

Thanks

The latest firmware for Samsung is LT 2.01, there is no need for LT+3.0 for these... it doesn't have support for the security stuff that Liteon does... therefor, it's been disabled...

You can use your computer as-is also, but only if you have a compatible chipset... and you clearly don't... therefor i'd say; get one of these if you really want to do it on your own...

It's highly NOT recommended that you use the console for power, mainly because if there's a power surge for any reason you'll mess up your console... this can be very difficult to fix...

Do you mean, if I have the LT 2.1 It will be able to read newest backup games? (i had it in the box for 5 years for the ring of death).

Can i update the dashboard? (with USB or download from live) or will disable the flash?

Samsung don't have LT+ 3.0

Etheir way, you need special hardware, you can't just grab any SATA -> USB hardware, this won't work... also, samsungs may need to be started with tray half open...

I'd recommend getting a x360USBPro v2 and using it to power your drive aswell as communicating with it...

Is an Xbox 360 fat Xenon with Toshiba Samsung TS-H943A Driver.

Cant Samsung be updated to LT +3.0??

Is it possible to update it without that board? (like the liteon drivers 

Thanks

you don't need to ask multipile times, it's enought with the one thread...

Sorry, i didn't saw the reply. Thanks.

Hi, Im trying to update an fat Samsung (from an old Xbox 360 with dash 2.0.8955.0) that have LT 2.0. But i didnt get the jungleflasher recognize the driver (conected with an SATA usb adaptet). is it right what Im trying to do? (using win 7 64 bits and other with 7 32 but nothing with both).

thanks.

Sorry about the name of the post, my phone dictionary is not a friend...

Hi, I fix an old fat Xbox360 with Samsung driver (dash 2.0.8955.0 with Lt 2.0). I was trying to use jubgleflasher to update to 3.0, but when I connected to notebooks (one with win 7 32 and other 64) didnt get recognize the driver (changing the pc BIOS setting and using an adapter from SATA to USB and power supply from xbox). Can someone help me to update it without using the flashing board (I dont have the key of the driver because i didnt do it before)

Thanks

who was the best?