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HELP!!!! Flash config 0x00000000 after bad nand flash!

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yes, everthing looks good on that end, as far as I can see, but the wiring colors arent the standard colors, so it while the points are correct, it is hard to tell without seeing the other end, connected to the programmer. Also you have a trinity, so try the bad flash recovery I mentioned. 

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yes, everthing looks good on that end, as far as I can see, but the wiring colors arent the standard colors, so it while the points are correct, it is hard to tell without seeing the other end, connected to the programmer. Also you have a trinity, so try the bad flash recovery I mentioned. 

VLgdV0h.jpg

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yes, everthing looks good on that end, as far as I can see, but the wiring colors arent the standard colors, so it while the points are correct, it is hard to tell without seeing the other end, connected to the programmer. Also you have a trinity, so try the bad flash recovery I mentioned. 

did the pic go threw 

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did the pic go threw

He means the pic of the programmer, and the pic of the motherboard.. so we can see if each point is where it needs to be, as in any tut, the wires are color coded.. your wires are all red mate..

Edit.. lemme check the wire setup on the programmer.. haha my bad.. those colors seem off honestly.. as red is supposed to be the 3v power.. not the other way with blue n green

 

 

ok i checked a diagram, and it is wired correctly.. BUT the orange and blue wires, seem like they are badly soldered.. blue looks completely fu-bard.. and the orange looks like a cold joint.. check em with a multimeter.. 

 

 

EDIT 2: and when i say check with a multimeter, use the points underneath the board, not where it is soldered to on-top.. as you could be getting a bad reading by touching the wire, ect.

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He means the pic of the programmer, and the pic of the motherboard.. so we can see if each point is where it needs to be, as in any tut, the wires are color coded.. your wires are all red mate..

Edit.. lemme check the wire setup on the programmer.. haha my bad.. those colors seem off honestly.. as red is supposed to be the 3v power.. not the other way with blue n green

 

 

ok i checked a diagram, and it is wired correctly.. BUT the orange and blue wires, seem like they are badly soldered.. blue looks completely fu-bard.. and the orange looks like a cold joint.. check em with a multime

The soldering is not the problem i used to be able to read and write the nand 

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The soldering is not the problem i used to be able to read and write the nand 

and solder joints can go bad.. lmfao.. dont try to tell me i am wrong, when you haven't even tried to check it.. 

 

edit: solder can go bad due to not using flux, ect.. a few diff reasons.. i'm giving you advice from 1st hand experience.. 

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and solder joints can go bad.. lmfao.. dont try to tell me i am wrong, when you haven't even tried to check it.. 

 

edit: solder can go bad due to not using flux, ect.. a few diff reasons.. i'm giving you advice from 1st hand experience.. 

Checked them they are working fine :)

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Checked them they are working fine :)

they obviously aren't.. as you can't get the error 0x000000 and "cant find connection" if your solder joints were fine.. lolol 

this i do know.. as 1 wire was loose on the opposite end, where it pluged into the JRprogrammer..

something is wrong with your lines..

 

edit: i will point this out in a screen cap from your image.. 

xp379z.png

 

THOSE JOINTS LOOK BAD, and the BLUE WIRE looks jacked the hell up lol

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they obviously aren't.. as you can't get the error 0x000000 and "cant find connection" if your solder joints were fine.. lolol 

this i do know.. as 1 wire was loose on the opposite end, where it pluged into the JRprogrammer..

something is wrong with your lines..

Im getting the error cant find flash controller and my soldering is FINE and i know that for a fact. 

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Im getting the error cant find flash controller and my soldering is FINE and i know that for a fact. 

refer to the picture in my previous post!!!

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they obviously aren't.. as you can't get the error 0x000000 and "cant find connection" if your solder joints were fine.. lolol 

this i do know.. as 1 wire was loose on the opposite end, where it pluged into the JRprogrammer..

something is wrong with your lines..

 

edit: i will point this out in a screen cap from your image.. 

xp379z.png

 

THOSE JOINTS LOOK BAD, and the BLUE WIRE looks jacked the hell up lol

Hmm did not notice that let me check that brb

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refer to the picture in my previous post!!!

I cant find my multimeater any other way 2 check? i also did not do the soldering i bought this rgh from a guy 

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I cant find my multimeater any other way 2 check? i also did not do the soldering i bought this rgh from a guy 

i get that.. i told you the soldering can go bad.. lmao.. and no.. you can try and re-touch it up with a soldering iron.. then see if it works..

 

i'm not trying to troll you here.. lol.. i was honest about my other connection problem.. i ran a multimeter and got 0 ohms from every possible part.. turned out to be the opposite end of the cord had a small cut, and when i was testing it, the cut was against itself.. but when i re-positioned it to flash, would get 0x00000 and "cant find" errors.. you might think everything is good, but yeah.. sometimes it is just a lil tiny messup screwing with it..

 

 

edit: also.. when/if you get this fixed.. use Swizzy's nand flasher program.. runs of USB, and handles corona 4gb, 

hardware flasher tend's to be a last resort thing..

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i get that.. i told you the soldering can go bad.. lmao.. and no.. you can try and re-touch it up with a soldering iron.. then see if it works..

 

i'm not trying to troll you here.. lol.. i was honest about my other connection problem.. i ran a multimeter and got 0 ohms from every possible part.. turned out to be the opposite end of the cord had a small cut, and when i was testing it, the cut was against itself.. but when i re-positioned it to flash, would get 0x00000 and "cant find" errors.. you might think everything is good, but yeah.. sometimes it is just a lil tiny messup screwing with it..

Im going to try 2 send it back 2 him for repair he says if he can fix it only using the flasher and NOTHING else then i pay for return shiping but if he has to use his own stuff then he pays return :D good deal to me i will post back here the end result

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Im going to try 2 send it back 2 him for repair he says if he can fix it only using the flasher and NOTHING else then i pay for return shiping but if he has to use his own stuff then he pays return :D good deal to me i will post back here the end result

it does just seem like a simple soldering problem mate.. 

but yeah.. if he has a nand dump, it can be fixed... you can even use the donor nand to fix it, as long as you have CPU key.. there is a tut in swizzy's sig.. just check one of his responses..

 

and as i added into my previous comment, use Swizzy's Nand flasher program next time to update the console

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it does just seem like a simple soldering problem mate.. 

but yeah.. if he has a nand dump, it can be fixed... you can even use the donor nand to fix it, as long as you have CPU key.. there is a tut in swizzy's sig.. just check one of his responses..

 

and as i added into my previous comment, use Swizzy's Nand flasher program next time to update the console

Update: The SMC killed the southbridge or it might just need reflowing im going to try to use a heatgun and heat the chip up or is there a better way?

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Update: The SMC killed the southbridge or it might just need reflowing im going to try to use a heatgun and heat the chip up or is there a better way?

That's insane, no the SMC didn't kill the southbridge, a short might have... not the SMC... the software cannot kill it...

It's possible that the MTX SPI Flasher messed up the SMC aswell...

** edit: **

I've never seen a console where a southbridge reflow or even southbridge reball would be needed, i have however seen consoles that needed a complete replacement of the southbridge due to people shorting things they're not supposed to due to ignorance...

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I would not advise the heat gun fix. It breaks more than it fixes in most scenarios.

So what do i do? I have 2 rgh consoles so its not a HUGE loss but still sucks

Sent from my LGLS992 using Tapatalk

That's insane, no the SMC didn't kill the southbridge, a short might have... not the SMC... the software cannot kill it...

It's possible that the MTX SPI Flasher messed up the SMC aswell...

** edit: **

I've never seen a console where a southbridge reflow or even southbridge reball would be needed, i have however seen consoles that needed a complete replacement of the southbridge due to people shorting things they're not supposed to due to ignorance...

I think it was the flasher i picked up a nandx so im good ðŸ‘

Sent from my LGLS992 using Tapatalk

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So what do i do? I have 2 rgh consoles so its not a HUGE loss but still sucks

Sent from my LGLS992 using Tapatalk

I think it was the flasher i picked up a nandx so im good

Sent from my LGLS992 using Tapatalk

Wait, are we talking about another console now or?

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Wait, are we talking about another console now or?

No same console i just wanted to say i dont need it fixed asap i just want to know what to do when i get the time

Sent from my LGLS992 using Tapatalk

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No same console i just wanted to say i dont need it fixed asap i just want to know what to do when i get the time

Sent from my LGLS992 using Tapatalk

Who told you the southbridge is broken?

Did you try the method i mentioned to you with the nand-x aswell?

Sent from my SM-G903F

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Who told you the southbridge is broken?

Did you try the method i mentioned to you with the nand-x aswell?

Sent from my SM-G903F

Yes.. The person I got it from told me its most likely the southbridge he tried doing things for hours

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Yes.. The person I got it from told me its most likely the southbridge he tried doing things for hours

So, when you got it, it wasn't working and had this problem?

Sent from my SM-G903F

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