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vick79

RGH 1.2 Coolrunner not acting right

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I have searched the internet to no avail. I hope somebody can help me here. I have done my fare share of RGH 1.2, and RGH 2, but never had this issue. My Coolrunner keeps glitching at the same rate no matter what timing file I put in it. I can't get xell to boot. I tried pulling the wires one at a time, if I remove RST, PLL, or POST it quits trying to glitch. The CLK doesn't seem to make a difference. If I re-write my original nand, it boots fine so hardware is still good. I forgot to mention, I'm doing RGH 1.2 on a Jasper 256mb. If anyone could help me it would be greatly appreciated.

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You'd have to put up some pics of your install to get help with this... wiring is everything with these cases...

Sent from my SM-G903F

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I have searched the internet to no avail. I hope somebody can help me here. I have done my fare share of RGH 1.2, and RGH 2, but never had this issue. My Coolrunner keeps glitching at the same rate no matter what timing file I put in it. I can't get xell to boot. I tried pulling the wires one at a time, if I remove RST, PLL, or POST it quits trying to glitch. The CLK doesn't seem to make a difference. If I re-write my original nand, it boots fine so hardware is still good. I forgot to mention, I'm doing RGH 1.2 on a Jasper 256mb. If anyone could help me it would be greatly appreciated.

if you remove ANY wire.. the CR will not glitch.. and as swizzy said.. need pix.. 

and yeah, the standby clock is only for rev C's.. so DEF would need pix.. and more info.. or you are following some random half-ass guide..

 

you need to use tinypic.com or similar mate.. and take better quality pix.. your soldering skills look shady at best.. ofc could be pix making them look like that..

 

Edit: also.. you need to trim down them wires.. looks like they are bridging points they are not supposed to..

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Unfortunately my camera on my phone sucks. I have re-soldered it so many times, trying to fix the issue, yes the soldering is starting to look like crap. I added to much solder to my PLL point. Since I'm not doing this for anybody else, I can redo it later. Just want to get it working.

I think my POST wire is bad, I'm getting terrible continuity through it. I will replace the wire and post results.

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Unfortunately my camera on my phone sucks. I have re-soldered it so many times, trying to fix the issue, yes the soldering is starting to look like crap. I added to much solder to my PLL point. Since I'm not doing this for anybody else, I can redo it later. Just want to get it working.

you didnt even include a pic of the standby clock solder.. but yeah.. you need to trim the wires.. blue and green look to be bridging other points.. and you can use tinypic.com to upload images, and they even give you the link to paste in forums.. so someone doesn't have to download the pix.. try and take better pix too.. lol

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Thank you. Sorry about everything, but this is the first time I ever posted in a forum.

you didnt even include a pic of the standby clock solder.. but yeah.. you need to trim the wires.. blue and green look to be bridging other points.. and you can use tinypic.com to upload images, and they even give you the link to paste in forums.. so someone doesn't have to download the pix.. try and take better pix too.. lol

The last pic 0020 is of my CLK point. I used the alternate point.

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When I get home from work, I am going to resolder everything. I looked over my soldering after a comment earlier, and I think Stevie Wonder could do a better job. I will never solder over someone elses house while somebody is over my shoulder, asking multiple questions, after being up for 56 hours, again. Unfortunately, there is nothing wrong with my camera, it looks that bad. I will post my results after resoldering it. My Xbox didn't deserve this.

I have re-soldered, shortening my wires in the process. Same results. Someone in another forum suggested enabling cap, same results. If I disable my CR chip, I can hear the CPU resetting at the same rate. I don't know if this helps, but if I program CR with RGH 2 timing file,the green led never lights up.

I'm not sure, but I think I might have a bad glitch chip.

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For sure you need to trim those wires down, you want as little metal exposed as possible on the wires, just enough for them to connect, your post_out looks like it's possibly a cold solder joint, i would remove them all, clean up the points and use fresh cables...

Also, make sure you tape the cables down, and avoid those... what're they called again? (my memory fail me, but the coils near the CPU, they generate a magnetic field which disrupts the signal in the wire)

** Edit: **

If you hear the fan doing anything other then having a stable sound and/or having a speed up every 5 seconds, it's because you have a short or so near CPU_PLL_BYPASS

Try writing back the stock nand, see that it still boots (with the chip disabled - just remove post_out and it should boot fine with the rest of the points connected on the chip, otherwise it's a issue with the console (pads) or the chip itself causing a issue

Edited by Swizzy

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It boots original nand with post connected, does this mean I'm not getting a good connection to post?

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Also, make sure you tape the cables down, and avoid those... what're they called again? (my memory fail me, but the coils near the CPU, they generate a magnetic field which disrupts the signal in the wire)

Toroidal inductor/transformer??

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It boots original nand with post connected, does this mean I'm not getting a good connection to post?

Have you disabled the jumper right by the phat/slim switch? Have you tried setting it to the opposite?? If on phat try slim, if on slim try phat, ect?

Edit:

And if you try rgh2 timing file, its a different wiring setup fool, ofc it wont boot haha (chip debug light wont flash off and on)

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I've tried switching phat and slim, but I don't know about a jumper next to the switch. Unless you are talking about JP. I have not removed it. I have never used a rev c before, but I installed a rev D in a Jasper 512 and I had to remove the resistors on the Crystal and cap. I had to bridge 2 and 3, and J and P. That system instantly boots every time. Other than the Crystal clock, what are the differences in the rev c and rev d? I have only used rev d and ACE chips before now.

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It boots original nand with post connected, does this mean I'm not getting a good connection to post?

Yes, it means it doesn't get what it needs to start counting to the glitch... or, you have a bootloader compatible with rgh 1.0 which would make rgh 1.2 not work iirc

Sent from my SM-G903F

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I've tried switching phat and slim, but I don't know about a jumper next to the switch. Unless you are talking about JP. I have not removed it. I have never used a rev c before, but I installed a rev D in a Jasper 512 and I had to remove the resistors on the Crystal and cap. I had to bridge 2 and 3, and J and P. That system instantly boots every time. Other than the Crystal clock, what are the differences in the rev c and rev d? I have only used rev d and ACE chips before now.

Yeah the jp jumper.. and only diff in rev c and rev d is rev d isnt official.. never ever has been.. lol.. and like swizzy said, what is the kernel you are trying to boot? Would be pointless to try 1.2 or 2.0 rgh if it is 1.0 complient

Edit: and the crystal.. lol that was added onto the rev d

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Yeah the jp jumper.. and only diff in rev c and rev d is rev d isnt official.. never ever has been.. lol.. and like swizzy said, what is the kernel you are trying to boot? Would be pointless to try 1.2 or 2.0 rgh if it is 1.0 complient

Edit: and the crystal.. lol that was added onto the rev d

I wasn't using my brain, evidently. I will have to check that and get back to you.

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I waswasn't usiusing my brabrain, evidently. I will have to check that and get back to you.

zhBJygE.jpg

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I've tried switching phat and slim, but I don't know about a jumper next to the switch. Unless you are talking about JP. I have not removed it. I have never used a rev c before, but I installed a rev D in a Jasper 512 and I had to remove the resistors on the Crystal and cap. I had to bridge 2 and 3, and J and P. That system instantly boots every time. Other than the Crystal clock, what are the differences in the rev c and rev d? I have only used rev d and ACE chips before now.

One major difference:

Rev C is official TX chip, Rev D is a cheap clone made by someone else using TX's name to get it promoted

Toroidal inductor/transformer??

It looks somewhat similar, but i don't remember that name... TX made a pic showing to avoid them, i'll see if i can find it...

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Yes, it means it doesn't get what it needs to start counting to the glitch... or, you have a bootloader compatible with rgh 1.0 which would make rgh 1.2 not work iirc

Sent from my SM-G903F

I thought all phat consoles could take RGH 1.2.

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I thought all phat consoles could take RGH 1.2.

and it depends on the bootloader.. i suggest you do some research.. RGH1.2 is based off RGH2 methods.. RGH1.0 will get you instaboots on dash's 13599 and below.. 14170+ if i recall correctly the bootloaders changed.. and split CB's, this is when RGH2.0 came out..

 

 

been a damn long time since i've done a RGH1.0 install so yeah EXACT dash versions might be off.. lol

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and it depends on the bootloader.. i suggest you do some research.. RGH1.2 is based off RGH2 methods.. RGH1.0 will get you instaboots on dash's 13599 and below.. 14170+ if i recall correctly the bootloaders changed.. and split CB's, this is when RGH2.0 came out..

been a damn long time since i've done a RGH1.0 install so yeah EXACT dash versions might be off.. lol

It's 14699 and below that's RGH 1.0 compatible, 14717 was first split cb... however, some refurbished ones came with split cb aswell, can't remember the dash number they started on but was 12k something

Sent from my SM-G903F

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It's 14699 and below that's RGH 1.0 compatible, 14717 was first split cb... however, some refurbished ones came with split cb aswell, can't remember the dash number they started on but was 12k something

Sent from my SM-G903F

ha.. atleast i was correct on the 99 last 2 numbers.. haha.. but yeah.. was somewhere's around there.. lolololol

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and it depends on the bootloader.. i suggest you do some research.. RGH1.2 is based off RGH2 methods.. RGH1.0 will get you instaboots on dash's 13599 and below.. 14170+ if i recall correctly the bootloaders changed.. and split CB's, this is when RGH2.0 came out..

been a damn long time since i've done a RGH1.0 install so yeah EXACT dash versions might be off.. lol

I just updated this console about 2 months ago, so we should be good there.

I just ran an ohm meter from my CR to the alternate post and clk points, they are making a good connection. Does anybody know an alternate pll and eat point I can test?

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I just updated this console about 2 months ago, so we should be good there.

and you still havent specified which kernel you are using.. lol

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