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shawn24589

Help please!Never before glitched Trinity Dash 17489. You're hepreciated

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So I bought a Trinity with dash 17489. I installed the qsb and cr4xl and read the nand 4 times. Copied em and put in a different folder. Selected glitch2 then cr4x, created ecc then loaded ecc in the source. Then write. Disconnected j-runner v2 programmer. The console boots fine. Solid green light on front. Cr4xl has a green light that is solid but flashes of every 4 to 6 seconds. When it flashes off it sounds like the fan is winding down for a split second. After playing with dip switches for HOURS! and slim to phat switch. And the post bit setting from default to 10ohm to 100ohms. Still no luck. Exact results

So I took the original nand and wrote it back to the console and the console boots up fine. Tried again to create a new ecc after dumping again and the comparison is the same. Wrote it to the console. And I get the same results. :(

Resoldered my points and cleaned with 99% alcohol and still no flipping luck. Any ideas?

O yea, btw my cpu is connected to the Internet and I did add the dash 17489 and let everything fully download. Trying to get xell to boot so i can retrieve the cpu key. Not sure what I'm doing wrong. I would greatly appreciate your help!!!!!!!

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First off, just because it turns on doesnt mean it boots. lol. second, try cutting the wires as short as possible, set the switch to slim, jumpers 3 and 4 to on, and postbit to 0. it should boot. Also check the xilinx chip on the cr4, as I did an install one time, and accedentally bridged 2 of the pins on the cr4, and it would blink forever and not boot on any setting. I was able to fix it by removing the bridge, and it booted right up after that. :)

 

PS when asking for help with an install, pictures are extreemly helpful in the diagnostic process. ;)

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How long do you wait for each attempt?

Sent from my SM-G903F

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I would wait up to 5 minutes. After growing impatient after a few hours of changing settings and trying different wire lengths and alternate post, I just started waiting a minute to 2 minutes between different dip switch and post bit. Still no luck. For the CPU_rest blue cable I tried ft4r2 then tried c5r11 furthest from yelllow.

I used the regular black ground. From grnd point to avport. I also have a double shielded CPU_rst cable. But DAMN that thing is girthy. I worry my board will be sticking up. Then when I screw everything down, I worry I will warp the board (also hard to find a pic of a full install on a Trinity using the double shielded pro). So I said EF it and used the regular wires.

I spent all night uploading pictures :(

Dunno where they are at. Gonna try again. Gonna take awhile. Super slow signal

Thinking I should remove the qsb and do a direct wire

Pictures up

Wish I could upload a video

I put back the original nand. And the console boots fine with the dip switches off. Got a few bad blocks that was remapped. Think I should get rid of the qsb and do a direct solder?

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You should REALLY give it more time then that, 1-2 minutes isn't enough when trying to get it to work for the first part, leave each dip setting for 10 minutes each, and let it do it's thing, you want to play with the settings later, when you have the Freeboot part (that's where it really matters, and where they fine-tuned it for)

But yes, do wire install instead of QSB install, generally works much much better =)

Also, your CPU_RST cable has been squashed, which means it may not carry the signal properly... you really don't want to use that big hole to pull the wires...

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Wow I had no clue it could possibly take so long with a cr4xl. Ima check that blue wire again. Thanks bud

It can take a long time with any chip, it's all down to the install, in your case you're very close to the inductors around the CPU, you may want to move your chip away from the CPU on the other side of the southbridge

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Also when you created the glitch image did you hit the cr4 checkbox? if not, it wont use the RGH2+ smc, and that would stop the console from booting successfully.

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Not sure if you've seen these or not before on the TX forum/howto wiki, but I compiled them for personal use since I find that default DIP settings on heat damage used consoles that I refurbish // hack almost always need a custom DIP setting.

As for the jumper, I find that having it in the middle is usually the most sucessful and I like to also solder in a 30uf disc cap.

 

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:) thank you all soooooooo much!!!! SUCCESS!!!!! I feeeeel soooooooo dumb overlooking that yellow wire 100 times (was on the 5th point down, not the 4th like I was suppose to be). I know if I had provided you all better pictures that you would caught it instantly and saved me crazy hours playing with dip switches. I blame myself, such a nooooob! I figured it out when I started trimming down the wires and got rid of the qsb. In the end it was all worth it, now it looks PRETTYYYYY. Got freestyle dash up and running and I feel like a KING!!! I can't thank y'all enough, especially you SWIZZY! I DID IT!
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