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GanderPan

Xenon Virgin ---> Jtag

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Glitch/Nand Reader Product(s) used: None
Console Type:Xenon
NAND size:
Dashboard version: Somewhere around 6000
CB version: Unsure
Screenshot of NAND details from J-Runner/Xebuild GUI: This is pretty much where I need help
J-Runner/Xebuild Gui log: Ditto
updflash.bin log (if applicable):
Image of Glitch Chip:
Images of close-up soldering to motherboard: As well as this
Description of problem:


Ok, so basically, I had a Xenon, Jtagged, that recently RROD'd on me... It's already had the X-Clamp fix, ect ect.. I'm assuming at this point it needs to be reflow/reballed..

Then serendipitously, a Xenon with dashboard somewhere around 6000 landed in my laps for $10 the other day. It's completely virgin, no soldering, and I swear the motherboard doesn't have a speck of dust on it.. Looks as though its never been used.. I haven't done a Jtag from virgin in a very long, and there is so much varying information out there, that its hard for me to tell whats old info, and what is current. So, I guess Ive got a few questions..

1. What can I preemptively do to this motherboad to keep it from RROD eventually, because as of now its in almost perfect condition.
2. What tutorial would you recommend for me doing the soldering needed for the Jtag?
3. I can't afford to buy a nand-x or anything, so is the LPT my best bet for getting the NAND? And if so, what tutorial do you reccommend for that?
4. Once I get Xell, or whatever I need on it to run xebuild, I'm good to go from there.. but I just.. I don't want to make it any harder on myself, and like I said, I can't pinpoint what the most up to date info for jtagging a xenon is... so if you could help me with a little check list, I'd really appreciate it.

Thanks.

-Gander

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Step 2a: JTAG
Now if you are on exactly dash 7371 (and therefore trying to JTAG) it is time to find out if you Xbox is JTAG'able. If this doesn't apply to you skip this. In J-Runner (it should still be open with your motherboard type selected and your NAND dump selected under "Source File") look over the the middle right and check out in the "Nand Info" section where is says "2BL [CB]". Look at what your CB is and see if it is in this list:
-Xenon: 1922, 1923, 1940, 7373
-Zephyr: 4571, 4572, 4578, 4579, 4580
-Falcon/Opus: 5771
-Jasper: 6750

If your CB is on this list it is patched and not JTAG'able. If it is not on this list you are good to go.

Checklist:

  • Your here because you found in the flow chart that your exploit method is the JTAG method (dash is 7371 or less and console is a phat)
  • You have Orig.bin NAND dump backed up
  • Your CB is not on the list of patched CBs

There are three main ways to JTAG your console:
1. The Xenon Method (only for Xenon consoles)
2. The Boxxdr Method (Zephyrs, Opus, Falcon, and Jasper)
3. The Boxxdr Method plus DVD Tray (Zephyrs, Opus, Falcon, and Jasper)

There are more variations of these methods but these are the only ones you need to care about as the Boxxdr method is the most stable. If you have a Xenon motherboard you do its one and only method, if you have any other motherboard you do the 2nd method (Boxxdr). In general the default method should work for you so go for it, but some consoles will rarely require the Boxxdr Method plus the DVD tray point. So if you get to the part with booting Xell and the console doesn't boot, you frequently get E79's, or you have problems with HDMI and really want it come back here and check out the 3rd method.

Method 1 (Xenon):

 
What you need:
  • Wire (from materials list)
  • (2x)1N914/4148 Switching Diode
In J-Runner (it should still be open with your motherboard type selected and your NAND dump selected under "Source File") in the upper right section titled "XeBuildOptions" click the drop down and select "Add Dash". In the window that appears check off "16747" and click "Add Dashes". Then in the same drop down select "16747" as it will now be in the list, and then select "JTAG" so it's bubble is filled. Now back in the upper left click "Create Xell-Reloaded". The log should say "Xell File Created Successfully xenon.bin".

Now follow which one applies to you:
A) You used the LPT method to dump your NAND
B) You used the NAND-X/J-R Programmer method you dump your NAND

A) Keep J-Runner open, and copy the xenon.bin file from the output folder in the J-Runner folder on your desktop into the Nandpro30 folder. The open a Command Prompt again ("cmd") and type "cd desktop\Nandpro30" and press enter, and then type in this command:
Code (Text):
nandpro lpt: -w16 xenon.bin
You will end up with something like this:
vNO43io.png

Now simply press enter and it should start writing, which you can see by the the 4digit alphanumeric code at the bottom that starts at 0000 and will slowly go up by 1. Once it reaches 004F (more for BB Jaspers) it will stop and show another command line. If it didn't work then 1)Check your soldering or 2) Your Xbox's power isn't plugged in

Now that this is done you can close Nandpro and remove your LPT plug from your computer and your Xbox. We won't be needing it any longer. Also, unplug the Xbox's power.
---END OF A---
B) In J-Runner click "Write Xell Reloaded" and you should see it start writing in the log. If not then make sure your NAND-X/J-R Programmer is still connected to your computer and the motherboard and the Xbox's power is plugged in. When it reaches 03FF it will complete.

Now that this is done you can disconnect the NAND-X/J-R Programmer from your computer and your Xbox. Also, unplug the Xbox's power.
--END OF B--

Now use this diagram to solder the actual JTAG wires:
3xx6ZM6.png
The red line is a simple jumper wire while the yellow and blue are bridging wires with one switching diode each. For both the blue and yellow wires, the end of the diode that has the black line closer to it MUST be soldered to the motherboard by J1F1, while the wire is soldered to the other end of the diode and then to its respective point by J2D2. Once this is done, put your Xbox back to together to the point where the motherboard is in the metal shell, the fans are in and the fan shroud is on, and the front Ring of Light board is plugged in. Then move on to Step 3.
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Thanks StaticPulse...

That was one of many tuts I've scoured the last couple day, just wasn't sure its methods were the most up to date. Thank you for the clarification!

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Thanks StaticPulse...

That was one of many tuts I've scoured the last couple day, just wasn't sure its methods were the most up to date. Thank you for the clarification!

The diode trick works perfectly for Xenons. I've done it now with two.

 

Getting a NAND dump via LPT cable check that guide, buying a jr programmer is worth it if you cant find a NAND-X,

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Here's the section on the LPT dump method.

 

This is the cheapest but longest method. You are going to need the following:
  • (5x) 100 ohm 1/2W Resistors
  • 1N914/4148 Switching Diode
  • 25-Position Male D-Sub Connector
  • 25-Position D-Sub Connector Hood (not needed but keeps it clean and safe from shorts external shorts)
  • Wire (from material list)
  • A computer with the old school 25pin purple printer/LPT port
The 25pin Male D-Sub Connector has a side with pins recessed and a side with pins that stick out and have holes. The following picture shows the side with holes, and on this side you are going to solder 1 of the 100K ohm 1/2W resistors to pink, light blue, yellow, blue, and red (direction does not mater).

14irxdc.png
Then you are going to solder a wire from each of the points/resistors ends (for the points that now have resistors) on the 25pin plug to their corresponding colors (just match them with the ones on the board), EXCEPT that the wire coming the the orange point will have the 1N914/4148 Switching Diode on it. The diode has a black line on it that is slightly closer to one side, and that side is the one that MUST be soldered to the motherboard, while the other side will be soldered to the wire coming from the orange point on the 25pin plug. Keep the wires as short as you can while still having enough length to reach from the Xbox to your computers port without putting too much tension on the wires.

Now that you have done this, you simply need plug the 25pin plug into your computer (while having your Xbox resting on some surface), and then plug in your Xbox's power brick but DO NOT turn the console on.

Then download the following:
-Nandpro V3.0a: http://dwl.xbox-scene.com/xbox360pc/nandtools/Nandpro30.rar
-If you have a 64bit system you also need this: http://www.highrez.co.uk/scripts/download.asp?package=InpOutBinaries

Extract Nandpro into a folder (called Nandpro30) on your desktop (you need WinRAR/7zip to do this) and if you have a 64bit OS extract InpOutx64.dll from the 2nd file into that folder as well, and if you have a 32bit OS once you extract the folder you must run port95.exe and install it. Then open a command prompt by searching (Windows 7/Vista) for "cmd" it or going to Run (All Windows) and entering "cmd". Then you are going to type "cd desktop\Nandpro30" and press enter, and then run this command:
Code (Text):
nandpro lpt: -rX nand.bin
where X is based on your console. If you have a Xenon, Zephyr, Opus, Falcon, Jasper, Trinity, or Corona V1 then X=16 If you have a Jasper BB 256MB or 512MB then X=64 (this can take a VERY long time for BB Jaspers)

In the end you will end up with something like this:
S8Nhnun.png

Now simply press enter and it should start reading, which you can see by the the 4digit alphanumeric code at the bottom that starts at 0000 and will slowly go up by 1. Once it reaches 03FF (more for BB Jaspers) it will stop and show another command line. If it didn't work then 1)You didn't run port95 or copy in InpOutx64.dll or 2) You didn't solder correctly or 3) Your Xbox's power isn't plugged in

Now you are going to run the command again except instead of "nand.bin" at the end you are going to have "nand2.bin". This is to get 2 dumps and compare them to make sure they match, which guarantees that it is correct (lots of waiting for Jasper BBs). Now open J-runner and click the "..." next to "source file" and select nand.bin and for the "..." next to "additional file" select nand2.bin (these are both in the nandpro30 folder). It should tell you it is an exact match in the log. If not keep dumping until you get two that match and once you get a pair that matches backup one of them somewhere as "Orig_NAND.bin" and keep it safe. Then rename the other matching dump to nanddump1.bin and move it to the "output" folder within the "J-Runner" folder that is on your desktop. Then open J-Runner and click the "..." next to "Source File" and open the nanddump1.bin you just moved.

Keep your Xbox plugged into your computer and it's power, and keep J-Runner open but close Nandpro. Then move on to Part 2a if you are using the JTAG method or Part 2b if you are using the RGH method.

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Personally, i highly do NOT recommend using LPT, not only does it take quite a while, but moving the cable just a tiny bit MAY cause the whole process to be completely useless (as it may cause the read/write to get corrupted)

You don't have to be on 7371 to install JTAG, you just have to be between 4548 (if memory serves me right) and 7371... you can download the update from here if you want to have a SAFE source for it: http://gxarena.com/Firmwares/Xbox360/SUFiles/ rename the downloaded file to "su20076000_00000000" (exactly like that, without the quotes), then put it in a folder named "$SystemUpdate" on a FAT32 USB stick and boot your console with that USB in it...

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