wabashman 11 Posted July 8, 2012 DG-16D4S 0225 Epoxy Removal and Replacement - The Easy Way By Podger & Ubergeek 1. The Liteon DG-16D4S Drive 2. Remove the 4 case screws using a Philips screwdriver. 3. Eject the tray (you can use a CK3 or the Xbox itself for power). 4. Peel back the acoustic foam that sounds the tray opening. 5. Holding the foam away from the case, remove the case lid. 6. Spindle motor ribbon connector: Separate the black retention clip from the white housing. The ribbon will pull out easily. 7. Laser motor ribbon connector: Separate the black retention clip from the white housing. The ribbon will pull out easily. 8. Laser data ribbon connector: The white retention clip pivots through 90 degrees. Gently pull the clip upwards. 9. The ribbon will pull out easily. 10. DeSolder the tray sensor and tray drive motor wires (5 wires in total). 11. Remove the PCB retention screw using a small Philips head screwdriver. 12. Release the PCB retention clip and ease the board out. 13. The PCB is now safely removed 14. To avoid heat damage to plastic, wrap the PCB in a few layers of aluminum foil. 15. Press the foil to locate the MT1335WE chip. Cut a small window in the foil to expose the MT1335WE. 16. Make sure that the window is large enough to expose all the epoxy. 17. Using a heat gun, heat the area on low heat for 45 seconds. Then try the epoxy. 18. The epoxy will initially go brittle. 19. Heat the area again on low heat for another 15 seconds. 20. When fully heated the epoxy will lift cleanly. 21. As you can see when heated at the correct temperature, the epoxy starts to break off in large pieces. 22. Don't try to go too far, reheat the area on low heat for another 15 seconds. 23. When you hit the sweet spot, it lifts very easily. 24. As you can see, it is very clean. 25. Don't forget to re-heat regularly, on low heat for another 15 seconds. 26. Continue onto the other sides. 27. Clean up any lingering pieces of epoxy. 28. Apply plenty solder to all the pins. The trick here is to use old fashioned lead solder. It melts at 180 degrees, 37 degress lower than the newer Lead free solder. So the chip will lift long before any of the other parts can. The excess solder makes it easy to see when the solder is molten and helps spread the heat evenly to all the pins. 29. Heat the area continuously until the solder begins to melt. There is epoxy under the chip. Use an xacto knife to prise chip away from the PCB. 30. The chip will come away easily. Remove the heat. 31. The lift is clean and all pads are intact YAY 32. Use braid and a soldering iron to remove the excess solder. 33. There is still a lot of epoxy in the area that was under the chip. 34. Re-wrap with foil, heat the area and remove the epoxy. It is also a good idea to clean all the pads with isopropanol alcohol after you have removed all the epoxy. 35. A job well done ! 36. Place the new chip. The trick here is to not use the corner pins for alignment. You will notice the corner pads are larger and can throw you off. Use a the pin 1 in from the corner pin. Align one corner and solder 1 pin. Move to the opposite corner and correct and misalignments, then solder 1 pin. Check the 1st corner again and all pins to ensure they are nicely positioned. 37. Apply flux to the pins and let it dry. 38. Solder all the remaining pins...You may want to use a microscope at this point 39. TA DA ! 40. The tools you need.. all cheap ass, apart from the microscope. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
