StaticPulse

It would be nice if it did.

FATxplorer wasn't made to mount classic xbox consoles and I no luck on my end with a physical attempt. More info on what it can do here http://fatxplorer.eaton-works.com/information/ Traditionally people just did it via FTP so good luck on that man.

lol remember that s/pata enclosure unit for $12 that I mentioned in Gavins post? I'll try it out and let you know.

They had it for the genesis also I think

awww...... I'm here in the US.... The brokerage fee wouldn't be worth it.... -sadness-

Yeah like in this tutorial here http://www.se7ensins.com/forums/threads/complete-benq-flash-tutorial.813974/ Gavin, I do think that the TuT that Blakey made with the wire patch would probably fix your eject tray issue, not sure about the rest of it though. Anyways, gnite everyone.

Anyone can make an adapter cable using the header pdf released by Speedy22 Matter of fact I just made this as proof of concept. The molex is used for EIDE drives....

double post sorry bout that, I'm tired..

You know... I'm not as ignorant as you think I am... Anyways, I'm headed to bed, good luck Gavin, I do really hope you fix your problem and wish you the best of luck.

I always figured it used the SATA power cable to power the port that powers the drive itself on the x360usb pro2 which is what I use and it works alright. Would be nice if I just had a esata to sata adapter cable with the data connector cut off.

Then it shouldnt flag if its powered by an enclosure unit if its not connected to the xbox in any way at all right?

What do you mean by the flagging with RGH boots?

A S/PATA enclosure unit also works for powering them on. Might be able to find one on ebay for cheap. Matter of fact amazon sells them for 12 bucks each! http://www.amazon.com/AcomData-PATA-IDE-Enclosure-Radiant-SMBXXXU2E-RD/dp/B000VNJD1S

Is the original board from the drive in use or did you transfer the one from the original drive of the console? That can cause an issue if you didn't flash it with the firmware from the original board using a x360usbpro or pro 2 device. That wouldnt cause the eject issue but at one time I did have an issue like that that also had a flashing green light issue which I was able to fix using a guide that Blakey wrote on the executer forums that called for a wire patch in on the bottom of the board. Not sure if it will help or not, but those two suggestions might help.

How much are you looking to sell them for and what's your location?

http://www.amc.com/full-episodes-archive AMC is nice like that maybe you should ask them? And why ask that on a console modding forum in the first place?

I was just kidding man, I wasn't able to fix the problem as upon close inspection of that white piece of plastic that screws into the laser housing has stripped teeth that guide it. I hadn't even thought to look at it until about 2 hours ago and I noticed that the teeth that are guided by the threading on the wormscrew motor are mangled. don't have access at this moment in time to a camera but I'll try to get some pics of it up tomorrow. It has a part # HZ2-4 on it. For awhile there I did think it was the switch that is next to the spindle motor on HL-DL10N drives which is what I was talking about in the picture. UPDATE Got some pics taken of the problem. sorry for the delay Here's a video of whats happening ###UPDATE### I just wound up buying a replacement drive since I cannot locate plastic laser arm replacements for the DL10N model line.. =\ Sucks to be me but at least it will be fixed and I can close out this console and put it up for sale.

The next tool I shall use to fix this is a hammer and a belt sander

Solved it! It was that little black SPST switch on the side with the wormscrew motor next to the spindle motor. I held the switch in with a plastic coffee wand and it stopped rattling. I'm guessing its a switch thats design to tell when the laser is at its furthest distance which causes it to retract the laser to the outside of the disc. I'm going to put a drop of super glue on the side of this plastic guide that screws into the laser to extend it a few millimeters and it will know when to retract the laser causing it to move like normal.

Not so lucky here, its doing the same thing with the replacement wormscrew motor from another DL10N drive. it doesn't look like its hitting the switch thats mounted on the bracket that holds the spindle motor so I changed out the spindle motor and the problem is still occurring. I'm going to see if I can hunt down another plastic bracket ( thing that screws to the laser and acts as a guide for the wormscrew motor.

ok, I read the key from the NAND, my mistake, I didn't read the drive with my usbpro2. I assumed its the original board since the drive still had its seal on the drive. I'll swap the motor and cross my fingers

So I'm working on this Slim Trinity that has an LG drive in it and it won't read discs and makes a horrible clicking noise. Before I replaced the laser it gave the allmighty disc unreadable error, after the laser replacement HOP-15xx it gives me the same error and same clicking noise. I open it up and see the laser colliding with the spindle motor. I realigned the laser to the outer rim of the disc and try again and it moves all the way to the front and begins smashing itself against the spindle again..... Am I missing something here? Any ideas what would be causing the wormscrew motor to do that with the laser? Motor looks brand new, matter of fact the whole unit looks new, and the dvd key matches the one on the NAND dump so right now outside of transfering the board to an old DL10N shell and rebuilding it I'm out of ideas. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

Don't they also need the postfix adapter?

lol!

LOL Going down the spiral https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-2LtJtSumJA