StaticPulse
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Posts posted by StaticPulse
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Ok, do this...
1. Go to your local hardware store, pick up the biggest & heaviest sledgehammer they've got...
2. Start by hitting your Xbox One with it on the fan, THIS IS IMPORTANT!!
3. Move slowly towards the left, where the BD drive is...
4. Call Microsoft and ask them for a hacked replacement
You'll have about as much luck getting either to work as getting someone to give you a JTAG/RGH hack any time soon, it took MANY years for JTAG to be possible on Xbox 360, even so, it took MANY MANY MANY years before it was even useful/feasible to install...
I can almost guarantee you it won't be a software hack for Xbox One, it'll most likely require hardware to get it booting a custom kernel... Microsoft WILL ban you within a few days of hacking the console if you go online aswell (which you most likely want to do)
And by the time it's feasible, the next M$ console will already be out. It totally blew me away that they're planning on releasing them two years from now. what a shitty lifespan for "Next-Gen" technology.....
Well... two years before the prototypes are finished....... Still though.....
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As far as I know from team xecuter, they did dump the NAND and they have dumped a 40GB game
Check this forum thread for more information
http://team-xecuter.com/forums/forums/247-Xbox-One-Scene-News
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Fuck Sony and MS with their Sega-esque business model of their newest plan on releasing their next consoles
With Nintendo saving all the money they did on doing Wii-U with ten year old technology, I really think the NX is going to be REVOLUTIONARY!
http://www.techradar.com/us/news/gaming/nintendo-nx-release-date-news-and-rumors-1289401
Not to say that Xbox and Playstation don't look cool but on this one I'm rolling with the OG Console guys.
This is what they are speculating the next Mario will look like.
Thoughts on this anyone?
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Might be able to JTAG the phat if it's dash version is the right one.
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BTW, this one's for you Static. Cybdyn, the guy behind PSIO, is also working on the DCIO for Dreamcast.
That will probably see light after the PSIO goes public.
Or check a YT channel that has 5 vids of DCIO https://www.youtube.com/user/9madsheep/videos
and the placeholder... http://dc-io.com
and his recent commitment... http://www.psxdev.net/forum/viewtopic.php?f=48&t=500#p6349
Thats pretty epic!
It would definitely make the storage hack a lot easier I think. I've been procrastinating so much on it. I really should put some time aside and actually complete the three mod projects that I have lined up. XBox Classic, Dreamcast, and finish tinkering with my jailbroken PS3. I really feel like I'm turning into a bit of a hoarder these days... hahaha!!!
By the way, concerning the PSIO storage capacity. I really think it should be up to 380-400GB max. Would make archival libraries one solid collection.
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Yeah IDK, sounds more like a full on hack. PSIO is more of an ODE
Yeah, it would be a full on hack, but man.... That'd be BADASS! You'd be the only person on the block with local storage via usb on whatever retro console you had.
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So you'd have to emulate an x86 in order to inject boot code into it in order to launch romfiles?
Thats pretty nifty, but it sucks that you have to emulate another platform in order to launch it..
I was thinking more or less write a custom USB driver for the PS1 architecture that would just allow you to boot to the stick instead, bypassing the other stuff. It's been a long time so maybe some of the original source is available for modification?
But then you are confined to your hardware resources and offhand I'm not sure what those are for the PS1. When I say what I said, I was referring to all retro consoles in general, and that it might be doable, just takes a lot of hard work, patience, and a sharp mind. You'd probably need to know assembly for older consoles I think.
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the main part is getting the communication between the cart and the motherboard figured out, from there it's not terribly hard i would suspect, that said... i'm no expert in hardware, neither do i really posses much knowledge of how the older consoles actually worked apart from using them to play games...
There's gotta be a way to do an internal mod for usb or microSD on them, if the cart can do it then it should be totally possible to do it hardwired internally to the board and just cut something out of the side of the console with a dremmel for a USB port (I hope.) That would be EPIC I think. I love old console's as they were always easier to reverse engineer, matter of fact, I need to get an oldschool Commodore C=64 and do the piggyback SID hack and the other mods to turn it into a 486DX2, well, the same processing power with internal hard drive NIC and CDROM . That would be so cool, just to have with a floating point processor on it.
http://www.64hdd.com/c64-projects.html
http://www.bigmech.com/misc/c64mods/audioinout.html
You'd probably loved a hacked C=64 Swizzy, it fully runs on BASIC and has nothing that prevents you from "tinkering"
I really wish there was one in production with modern architecture, such a wonderful platform that was open for literally ANYTHING!
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That might be, but something must be up with the NAND image that's causing this. Just reflashed a fresh updflash.bin, console's back to where it started
Just re-wrtie ECC to boot XeLL and I think you should be good to go. If the problem replicates then there may possibly be heat damage? I had something similar happen to me with a Falcon once but it would freeze roughly five minutes after booting.
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Way ahead of you. That was one of the first things I checked for as soon as I took it out of the casing. Even so, if there was a bridge somewhere, wouldnt the problem present itself earlier?
The only thing I remember doing right before putting everything back together was to desolder the NAND-X cable. The motherboard was in the metal shell at that moment, but again, I made sure there wasn't any debris or cross connections afterwards.
Any resistor or points I can check for continuity to find faults?
Now that you mention it, there is a small SMD resistor by where you would solder the NAND points, on the bottom I think (I only have a slim trinity board for reference so I could be wrong) but check to see if R2C8 is properly in place, just look and see if its on straight or if its crooked from maybe some impact damage.
I remember once while repairing someone's console that that resistor was slightly off and as it turned out one side had a cracked solder joint. Maybe yours does too. Not sure, if it looks fine don't screw with it. as far as SMD capacitors go, you can only test the for faults when they're not soldered to anything. Maybe get in there with a magnifying glass and look for visible thermal damage?
Point being, I thought possible short or bridged contact because you said it worked up until desoldering your NAND wires. Maybe check your wire patch, did you use flux like I suggested? Did the solder take hold or is it floating above the area you soldered? Don't tug the wires maybe lightly nudge them with a small plastic probe? If they're stationary, then move on to the next area of the board where you were working.
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Well, I didn't use any of the screw holes, I used one of the JTAG holes. But I am absolutely sure that the wire is intact, unless there is some other factor in play.
Since this is a Corona, I presume there isn't a HANA, so it might be somewhere around the Southbridge. I've brushed up the points a bit more to see if any of them was the problem, but to no avail.
Here are the pics. I hope they clarify things though.
IMG_20151116_020315.jpgIMG_20151116_020353.jpgIMG_20151116_020416.jpgIMG_20151116_020438.jpgIMG_20151116_020518.jpgIMG_20151116_020549.jpgIMG_20151116_020621.jpgLooks good from what I can see, maybe check for any bridged solder joints, or debris that might be causing it to short?
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Pretty much, Lolz.
One thing I'm not looking forward to is the cost. That's literally like an arm and a leg for me. Maybe I should have a bake sale, lmao.
Same situation with all those SD card cartridges. It's going to be nice when someone finally reverse engineers them and starts making their own, forcing the price down.
I can understand getting your money's worth, but some of those guys are just plain greedy...
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Ok I have my XBLA in different folders I have Content on HDD, Content_2 on USB1 and Xbox Live Arcade Games on USB1, and XM360 doesn't serch them other folder so how do I unlock my XBLA,
P.S. I got the 360 setup like this.
Which version of XM360 are you using?
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Updated first post to show beta is at 98% and added FAQ link
Also wanted to let people know that they are talking about different purchase options.
- purchase just the PSIO kit
- purchase a board with the kit already installed (older boards being more expensive then newer boards)
- send your board in to have the kit installed
Obviously shipping to and from Australia may limit peoples options, but that's why I hope to see distributors/installers.
They do mention however that shipping is free and included in the $149.95 AUD price.
Heh heh heh, you're really looking forward to this one, I can tell!
Reminds me much of myself with my OCD quest in obtaining retro hardware and hacking the shit out of all of them just so I can showcase them one day and say "See all that there? You'll never have cool stuff like that because my antique shit is just plain cooler!" hahahahah!
Many of my friends are like "Why are you doing this if you can already emulate it on a xbox classic, 360, or jailbroken ps3?"
I'm like "Because I can and because its cool!"
I just wish the cartridge SD memory units for NES/SNES/GENESIS were cheaper or if someone made a cartridge hack that allowed a microSD interface Internally, so I could just turn it on without a cart and still get the same stuff.
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Not yet actually. Otherwise the console was working fine before I reinstalled the hard drive and cables and the other innards. The only thing that crosses my mind would be the NAND points; I desoldered the JRP cables with the motherboard inside the casing, but I cleaned it up properly though.
If you routed the wires that go underthe board through the screw holes next to the ones by the x-clamps, hopefully when you re-assembled it you didn't put the long case screws into the holes that you routed the wires through. THat can tear them and expose the wires, grounding it to the screw which would cause a problem. Usually one beep and no start is indicative of the area by the HANA or the Southbridge.
What I'd do is post updated pics of your work, and of all areas of your motherboard, preferably in a good resolution to where it can be seen of what physical issues may still be there.
I've never had an issue with the NAND points still being connected on a Power-up and they even have the NAND extension that is permanantly soldered, so I don't think that's your problem.
POST UPDATED PICS OF YOUR WORK
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Exactly what Swizzy said, I myself don't like using hot glue but its also doable. I'm glad you were able to get it to work again. I just like E6000 because it can be used as glass epoxy for ceramics.
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Hello again. So I've installed a CR4 XL into a Corona v1 board set to RGH2+. However after the install, the CR4 board does not seem to glitch at all and only shows that it is getting power. The console on the other hand, powers up so I presume there is nothing wrong with the motherboard. I've used one of the alt cpu_rst points instead of the recommended one since i don''t have access to good quality thermal paste. What could be causing this? Thank you
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First off, here: http://www.se7ensins.com/forums/threads/sin-hds-ultimate-jtag-rgh-install-guide-w-the-cr4-xl.1235020/
Secondly, from what I saw, I'd tin your wire leads and cut them a bit shorter, then I'd keep the wires for the install as short as possible.
I learned a long long time ago that using a jewelers fiberglass pen to scour you contact points (gently) and being liberal with the flux helps a LOT. Afterwards, clean up your flux with some 91% or better isopropyl alcohol as flux tends to corrode contact points.
The reason I reccomend shortening your wires is that it will provide less resistance on the lead in question.
After than go over the default DIP setting, if that doesnt work then you get the fun of trying all the different tested and successful DIP settings until you hit paydirt. The postbit jumper setting sometimes helps too. I see you have yours set at default, try out the 10ohm setting as I've had the most success with that and a 30uf disc capacitor.
EDIT
Concerning the lifted solder point, see if you have any kind of a copper trace left next to it that you might possibly be able to LIGHTLY scratch with a x-acto knife to expose the copper, dab it with some flux, tin it, and if you have decent soldering skills, line the wire up on top of the exposed trace, solder it in, then if successful, put a dab of really good glue E6000 works great for that kind of repair. Don't do it at the end of the trace because that will eventuall peel off. Do it with at least a 1/8 inch from the end where you're going to solder.
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Are you saying the game itself didn't scan in?? When you said "I put mine on USB0's Content folder" I just assumed you were only talking about the CP. You don't put your games in a separate "Game" folder? IDK, I'm probably just misreading
The game refused to scan on USB0, I finally got it working on HDD1, was a bit confused since most of my 360 titles are on USB0 and they work just fine and xm360 detects and unlocks those. BOPS3 wouldnt. Its good to go now and the fakelive trick works. Weird thing though is I had to disable fakelive for Minecraft to get it to work...... I'm having a bit of a problem getting it to run on my buddies Jasper but I think thats more of a kernal and dashlaunch version issue which I don't have the time to update as I have to head out to the bay area today.
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Yeah, just put the TU and CP in HDD1/Content/000.../
I didn't do anything with TU, I just told Aurora to DL it from Unity after I scanned the game in.
Thats weird that it wouldnt scan into USB0 though, like most of my games are on that drive and they all scanned in just fine.
Anyways, thanks for all the support Quattro and Swizzy! Would've probably wanted to punt my console like a football over such a simple oversight on my part.
And yeah, I definitely agree with Felida on this one, the in-game graphics look like shit.
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Ok, so then everyone needs to do the TU manually then or put it on HDD1?
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Same here, but I use autofake.
Begallegal posted on another site that all it requires is a Live enabled profile and no editing of the CP, but I haven't tested that out.
I guess I could just hex my CP back or overwrite it to check, but whatever, it works. I hex'd my profile ages ago to an online one.
Originally Posted by begallegal1
***************************************************************************Some important info I have found so far in my testing of this piss poor sorry excuse of a "game"..... ahhhhemmm sorry ,,PORT of a game to be a little more correct
****************************************************************************
1. The game must be launched by a "live" profile or it will error in the menu (you cannot switch to a live profile once in menu, error will occur)
2. You must have an active LOCAL network connected to the console (internet access is not required, I just tested this on a spare router) else you will get LAN connection error in menu.
if you have those 2 things, and your TU and CP in the correct place (and TU enabled if needed) it will run,, should be no need to extract the content pack or any of that I have read
if anyone is writing up a tut on running this pile of piss , please include this info so when people get to see the game for the first time it wont hurt so bad from the annoyance of hours of fiddling for nothing worth playing. LOL
I put mine on USB0's Content folder and I'm having problems getting Aurora to scan it. It executes fine, working on the CP now, but I think I'd like to manually do the TU if I can't get it to scan into my library. I have the non-GOD version.
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No problem guys, I don't mind the OT. I'll update the first post again when I hear more about it, so people don't have to wade through comments as much.
Not sure if I'll actually get one, maybe if the price drops below $100, cause I'll still have to get a console with an IO port. Hard to do on county assistance [emoji17]
BTW, I'm not a fanboy of anything in specific, just if something works well, either by design or from modification.
I do have Harmony remotes and love my One. Had the screen replaced from harmonyremoterepairs during their initial run and works like new. The Ultimate One is horrible though, great concept, bad implementation. If they had stuck with the intuitive design of the One, with the function of the Ultimate One, they would've struck gold.
My buddy in Stockton might be able to hook you up with a PS1. He has an account here, I'll facebook him and see if he still has some from the last bulk retro hardware trade he did awhile ago. He's pretty easy to please on trades for equipment so I think you're covered. Let me ask him first though.
EDIT
sladezzdragonzz is his name here.
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Logitech has always been a pretty good company in my opinion. I remember when all they had that was worth a crap was their really high and relatively inexpensive mice. The only thing better was anything made by Razor.
I myself have a Logitech K400 that I use for my Kodi Android box (Matricom Gbox Q) and it works great!
I always liked MadCatz also, I have two wireless controllers for my hacked Gamecube (XenoGC modded) and I've never had a problem with them other than needing an occasional battery changeout.
I feel kinda bad right now for hijacking Quatro's thread, I'm sorry bro, I only asked cuzz I know you're probably one of the most knowledgeable people on Xbox classic mods since you did everything you did with your baby. I'm planning on doing many simialar mods in the future... As soon as I break away from pampering my white 1997 Volvo 854 R heh heh.....
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Looking forward to seeing "Update Available" from my console when I turn it on later. More good stuff to have fun with.
Nintendo NX
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You know AMD is making a killing off of all these console sales though..