rampage

https://sn00wconsoles.com/jrunner/ seems to be down, any backup link?

Please reupload, the xboxhacks.de doesn't allow to sign in or reset password for some reason

I used BenMitnicK's JRunner mod 0.6 to build the 17544 dash, now it works fine without black screen!

It must be my own tool had some problem, built some bad images. 

Thanks for the help!

Thank you for the great work!

Cool, so it's more likely a bad nand build, I'll try my luck with other build method

Hi, 

It seems the current  Aurora/NOVA 0.7b.1 gives black screen at start while it is running on 17544 dash. 

It is using default settings. 

So is there a settings can be changed to make it compatible or we need to wait for an update from the developer?

Thanks. 

Where do I put the title update file for this app?

Is it

Content\0000000000000000\394707D1\000B0000\

I can see Aurora says backing up netflix title update... but it does not list the title update in the management for enable it. 

Trying to launch netflix without enabling the title update, will just do nothing

Ok, the problem is pretty simple:

The R3B15 resistor on the STBY_CLK line near the HANA chip has blown up. 

It should be 33 ohm but measuring up to 4.6M ohm. 

Haven't touched it or the CLK point yet beofre, don't know why it's so easy to blown up this one. 

The fix is either replace this resistor at its original position or parallel. 

Or here's another easy fix on the bottom side I used:

https://team-xecuter.com/forums/threads/88489-TuT-Alternate-STBY_CLK-Install-STBY_CLK-Fix-for-Slim-and-Phats-(Noob-Friendly)

After the  R3B15 resistor fix, NandPro is happy dumping now.

I came across this idea by knowing the console would beep/ping once and no sign of further life if the STBY_CLK line has problem, either lifted pad/trace or the resistor has died. https://team-xecuter.com/forums/threads/151133-X360S-Trinity-beep-but-no-boot-HANA-horror-(NO-RGH)

Yes it boot before. It might be bad trace, I'll try using the backside points/alternative points. 

I appreciate your help man, just am thinking what would be the problem or solution 😏

5 minutes ago, felida said:

1st, the ground in the picture I posted is in j2c1, top right, you have a wire soldered there.. not somewhere else.. wtf..

Also, you are missing the 3rd wire on left side of j2c1.. 

Seriously.. look at the nandx install pix.. You will realize your error.. or not..

 

Seriously man, I appreciate your help.

However, it seems though you know how to do nand reading, but you never understand it.

You think the top right black spot is GND, and I have a wire soldered there, you are wrong. 

The top right black spot is MOSI not GND.

Sorry Team Xecuter misguided you with the black color, black color is not always GND, remember this please.

And let me give you a better guide:

1 is MOSI not GND.

I hope you save this image onto your computer and remember it. 

One more thing, don't use wtf here wtf there, it only makes you look like a fool with low intelligence. 

Thanks for the reply. 

Well as I said I soldered the GND to somewhere else. 

The joints are not good looking but they do the job very well. 

Always like that shiny never had problem.

Hi,


Am using matrix nand flasher and nandpro 2.0e, both worked fine on another motherboard.
10.83A Power supply showing yellow/orange while plugged in, same power supply worked fine on another console.
Trying to boot will only give one beep sound, no sign of fan or any other activity. 
Have tested all the MOS on the motherboard and the voltage drops seem to be normal, I assume all of them are good.
Tested the soldering points for nand reading, against the pads on the bottom side for continuity , all seems to be fine. Have re-soldered them anyway. 

GND Point has been soldered to the AV port.

So what can I do with this issue?
I assume the motherboard is alive and I would need to unlock the flash chip by shorting?
Have already tried to short the pins using a wire taped to the pins, or a screwdriver, neither worked.
Maybe I should try to solder wires directly to the pins?

1) Disconnect Power Cable from 360, and disconnect USB cable from PC
2) Leave 360 unplugged for 2 mins
3) short data pins 29-32 being careful not to touch power pins 36&37 (my screwdriver was actually too big and ended up shorting 27-32 which worked fine for me, make sure the screwdriver head sits flat along the pins so it touches all of them without pressing too hard to avoid damaging)
4) Plug in Power
5) WAIT 5 seconds!!! <--- did not see this in other guides and it helped me!
6) Remove short
7) Plug in USB cable
Erase entire nand using the command: 
nandpro usb: -e16 0 400

Some threads say shorting pins 44-47 instead, so which one is correct?

Hi,

Thanks for the quick reply. Yes the wiring is the problem, it could be either too long or the wire positioning. 

I trimmed the wire and cleaned the positioning and now it glitches fine. 

Also I found a topic here that has a similar problem:

Getting a rapidly blinking Green Light on Coolrunner

https://www.se7ensins.com/forums/threads/getting-a-rapidly-blinking-green-light-on-coolrunner.1375775/

Thanks guys. I've gave that console to other people for parts so no way to test it now. 

No I didn't do any soldering on the motherboard. 

Also I tried to reflow the GPU and CPU a bit but no difference. 

It's more likely the PSU is the problem I guess. 

Yes have tried to clean the PSU with compressed air, no go. 

I give up on this one, buy another one is really cheap compare the time needed on this one. 

Thanks anyway. 

Thanks for the reply. 

It is the 150W PSU for Jasper. 

I guess it could be the PSU can't supply enough power while turning the console on? Because the standby voltage are ok. 

Unfortunately I don't have another PSU or console could test them. 

Hi,

I've a Jasper console, it has RROD, code is 0001.

It shows RROD immediately when switch button pressed, fan is not spinning. 

The PSU has Orange indicate, whether the console is turned on or not. 

So I've taken it apart and tested the power source spots:

Standby 5V present. When turned on, 12V is not there. 

Standby 5V, 3.3V, 1.8V present. When turned on, 12V is not there. 

Standby 5V present. When turned on, 12V is not there. 

So according to the test result, I guess the PSU and MOSFET are fine. It might be the cpu needs to be re-flowed?

Any help  will be appreciate.

Cheers,

R